curved stair installation |Forum|WOOD DESIGNER

Avatar
Search
Forum Scope


Match



Forum Options



Minimum search word length is 3 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters
sp_Feed sp_TopicIcon
curved stair installation
Avatar
Ness

Forum Posts: 1939
Subscriber Since:
October 4, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
8
August 14, 2015 - 12:13 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi Duayne,

I’ve never tried using ply but I don’t see why not.

Just a bit of extra work veneering the edges, no extra if painted.

All the best,

Ness

Avatar
Duayne Naugle

Forum Posts: 129
Subscriber Since:
March 1, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
7
August 13, 2015 - 5:04 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

What are your thoughts in using plywood for skirts and risers ? good qualities  :its very stable, the overall look is more consistent  , cons : edges need to be veneered where visible  and it dents easily !

Avatar
Ness

Forum Posts: 1939
Subscriber Since:
October 4, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
6
August 13, 2015 - 2:27 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi Duayne,

The inner plinth/step support board is the same thickness as the depth of the step housings.

I use 15mm-20mm, you can go down to 12mm but I would avoid anything less.

The outer board is usually 25mm-30mm.

So the total thickness is 40mm to 50mm.

All the best,

Ness

Avatar
Duayne Naugle

Forum Posts: 129
Subscriber Since:
March 1, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
5
August 12, 2015 - 9:50 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

so what is the total  thickness of the Plinth plus  the  stringer ?

Avatar
Ness

Forum Posts: 1939
Subscriber Since:
October 4, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
4
August 12, 2015 - 4:04 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi Duayne,

To avoid cupping, it’s easy to add a nail or two across the whole width of the plinth. I don’t usually glue, always use dry wood and I’ve never had any cupping. The plinth is usually a thin board who’s thickness is equal to the depth of the step housing ie. 15 to 20mm.

You are right to say that the upper and lower corners of the cut outs are very fragile, but the way the plinth is tapped into place there is no cross grain strain on these corners and I’ve never had them breaking.

All the best,

Ness

Avatar
Duayne Naugle

Forum Posts: 129
Subscriber Since:
March 1, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
3
August 3, 2015 - 6:56 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

in the other video that you linked me to : do you glue the plinth to the stringer and nail  , i would assume that there is a possibility of the plinth cupping in the cut out section . 

 Also , as you tap the plinth in from the bottom it appears to me that there is a good possibility of the very top and bottom cutout splitting with the grain  , has this happened to you before ?

Avatar
Ness

Forum Posts: 1939
Subscriber Since:
October 4, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
2
August 2, 2015 - 2:46 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print sp_EditHistory

Hi Duayne,

Thanks for posting your question.

The steps and risers on the inner string are screwed from the under side by driving in a slinted 4mm screw pin from the under side of the steps. The screw is driven at a slant into through the step and into the string so that the step cannot move out of the stringer.

We only screw a couple of steps per flight.

This is only a safety measure and the way the stair is set up it’s impossible that the steps come out of the housings as the lean of the string will actually push the steps against the walls.

The steps are pulled into the housings using ratchet straps. They are usually a tight fit with a slight bevel so they are even tighter when pulled in.

If it’s possible to use housed stringers on both sides, assemble the whole unit and hoist it into place we often do this. However in renovation work we often have to install in tight stair wells where the only solution is to build the stair into the well. In this case the 2 part stringer works really well.

In fact over the years I have found that it makes installation so much easier that I often opt for it even when it might be possible to do other wise.

You can see another stair built this way on our blog here:

https://wooddesigner.org/stair…..vironment/

all the best,

Ness

 

The pin is 

Avatar
Duayne Naugle

Forum Posts: 129
Subscriber Since:
March 1, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
1
August 2, 2015 - 3:14 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

 i was watching your short video on a curved stair installation and i have a few questions :

the treads are placed and screwed on the outside skirting but how do you secure the treads to the inside curve , , i know they are housed but surely you must fasten them somehow !

When i do a housed tread and skirt stairway  my treads fit the housing really tight and they have to be wiggled in to place or pulled tight with some clamps , what is your method of installing them ?

 Usually , if my stairway is to be housed , i do both sides that way , build it in my shop and install the whole piece as a unit , my next job involves a lack of room to work and even less to get a whole stairway up to the third floor , i would like to use your method for for building and assembling the stairway . 

Forum Timezone: Europe/London
Most Users Ever Online: 256
Currently Online:
Guest(s) 19
Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)
Top Posters:
Tom Cleaver: 162
mark nichols: 160
brendan kavanagh: 136
Conor Devoy: 132
Duayne Naugle: 129
Stu Robertson: 104
Zaheer Abbas: 86
Robert Coxhead: 63
Ray: 59
Patrick Maylor: 57
Newest Members:
pg_panel7
hadialnajjar
Isaac
butnariu daniela
Yosi Siboni
dziekan
AKM
Garyh
niharbu
Daniel Jones
Forum Stats:
Groups: 2
Forums: 7
Topics: 2075
Posts: 11391

 

Member Stats:
Guest Posters: 4
Members: 254
Moderators: 0
Admins: 12
Administrators: Ness, Stefan, Michel, Carole, Alex, admin, Laly, ipatrick, Crystal, Fatima, Darren, Isaac