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Dear Ness,
Thanks for the manufacturing documents, they look good!
I’ll keep you updated,
All the best,
Jeffrey
October 4, 2012
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HI Jeff,
Here are your StairDesigner manufacturing files.
Note that the part of the steps in the newels are not optimised for cutting as they are calculated around a string that isn’ there.
For this reason you’ll have to adjust their shapes as in the example drawings I’ve included:
Have fun building, and keep us updated as to how it goes.
All the best,
Ness
Hi Ness,
Thanks for your review, the videos and adjustment to the steps. As you advise I would like to go for the bolted joints instead of the penetrated joints with the newel posts. To confirm the latest jeff01v04.sds model is OK (only the penetration parameter than has to be set to 0)
Many thanks again,
Looking forward to the documents,
Best Regards,
Jeffrey
October 4, 2012
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Hi Jeffery,
It seems that you have set the newel to the correct size and position as per your drawings.
The string to newel penetration depends on how you want to assembly them.
Penetration is used when you either housed or mortise and tenon.
In most cases I advise a bolted joint which is easier, faster and stronger that tenon and mortise.
A good bolted joint makes it unnecessary to house , see these videos:
https://wooddesigner.org/membe…..jig-intro/
https://wooddesigner.org/membe…..jig-build/
I attach a model that I have adjusted the steps to make all step and riser penetrate frankly on the face of the newels , it’s a real pain to have housings on a corner!
Tell me if this latest version is OK and confirm you still want the newel penetration and I’ll send you the working documents.
All the best for 2016,
Ness
Dear Ness,
All the best wishes for 2016,
Thanks for your optimization of the stair design and the great advise for printing and Draftsight.
I made some minor modifications to it, and believe it is ready for generation of documents. Hope you could help me with a short review on it again for the following:
- What I didn’t mention before is that there is an existing 1st floor stair on which the new stair has to rest. I modified the middle newel post offsets to consider the exist newel post of the stair of the 1st floor. I hope I did it correctly as I cannot verify the newel post dimensions and position directly from StairDesigner. I hope you could help me check them before generation of the manufacturing documents? Attached I enclosed the .dwg drawing with dimensions and a ppt with some explanation.
- Further I set the length of the middle post to 350cm in order to have a horizontal handrail on the 3rd flight.
- Thanks for changing the number of steps to 12 instead of 13. I further saw that the steps are set to be winded instead of straight. I guess this will be more comfortable to climb? ( I based the straight step setting before on the 1st floor stairs, but would like to keep the winded steps in case you advise it to be better.)
- What I further wonder is why you set the penetration parameter of the stringboards into the post (0 cm) ? Is it due to that it is easier with regard to assembling and in relation to the short length of the left hand side stringboards? For the dxf file generation I prefer to keep them, I will remove them manually by editing the the dxf files in case you advise so.)
Looking forward to receive the manufacturing documents,
Best Regards,
Jeffrey
October 4, 2012
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Hi Jeffrey,
I’ve optimised your project and attach the StairDesigner file for your approval.
The members free StairFile Lite service gives you the DXF files of your stair that you will have to load into CAD and set up the printing yourself. You can use our free CADD program Draftsight, the link to the download site is here:
https://wooddesigner.org/membe…..ftsight/
If you would like us to supply the full size tiled printable PDF files you’ll have to use the paid StairFile Pro service that you can buy here:
https://wooddesigner.org/stair…..e-service/
Although possible, I consider printing onto tiled A4 tricky to get accurate templates. The minor differences when matching up the sheets to the full length of the parts will require that you mark out the different overall lengths to make sure the dimensions line up, this is also true for A3.
If you don’t have access to at least an A1 printer it’s usually better to add dimensions to the a A4 drawings in CAD and mark out the parts from the dimensioned plans.
In general we advise subcontracting the printing to a professional printer who prints architectural plans. These guys can usually print large format plans for minimal cost.
As a stair professional myself I have a large A0 plotter in my office, but most of my stair templates are subcontracted to my local printer who can printer faster and better than I can.
My plotter is only used for on off print outs that I need immediately.
Hope this is helpful,
All the best,
Ness
October 4, 2012
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Hi Jeffrey,
Thanks for posting you question.
We will be happy to help, but we are all away for Christmas, so I’ll be getting back to you next week.
Have a good Christmas,
best regards,
Ness
Dear,
Could you please help me with the PDF and DXF manufacturing documents to build the stairs as attached in the .sds?
What I would like to do is print 1: 1 scaled templates on paper (especially for the stringboards and posts). Therefore I would like to use an A4 printer (or in case advisable A3 printer). Could you help me with PDF documents that support this idea of tiling the print templates?
Many thanks in advance,
Best Regards,
Jeffrey
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