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Stair project
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Ness

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September 23, 2015 - 5:00 pm
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Hello Daniel,

You stair will work and I could send you the working documents, but there are one or two points that could be modified:

– the posts are flush to the outer edge of the steps and the handrails. It would be better to set back the steps and handrails.

– At 160x200mm and 100x100mm the posts are a very massive for you stair. I would consider making them from smaller stock.

I have tweaked your stair in the attached file.

What do you think?

All the best,

Ness

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September 21, 2015 - 3:27 pm
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 Hi Ness,

 

Sorry I think I may have confused things a bit. I meant joining the cut string on the left wall, as it curves just as it meet the winding. I’ve seen in some of your projects you use bolts i think? Even though I have a wall on the left it is still my intention to use a cut string as i want a skirt that follows the line of the stair. I’ll either cut it to measure after or use the cut string as a template.

I’ve attached a modified stair of the one you sent me. I hand to make the landing newel larger to receive another ballister the runs along the hall.

Also I had to make the second stair shorter as I can’t manage the 860mm proposed i got 830mm and left the 20mm for wiggle room, I know this imposes the newel on the stair but there isn’t really any other option.

What do you think?

Thanks again.

Daniel

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Ness

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September 21, 2015 - 2:49 pm
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Hi Dan,

If you have walls on the left use a boxed string.

The joint can be screwed fro the back like this:

double-screwed-strings.jpgImage Enlarger

If you only have on string against a wall you can just screw from one side:

screwed-strings.jpgImage Enlarger

Or use a rabet and screw :

rebat-and-screwed-strings.jpgImage Enlarger

No need to glue. Dowels can help positioning but are not really necessary.

Also wall strings can be less thick as they are supported by the wall fixings.

I attach an updated StairDesigner model.

All the best,

Ness

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September 21, 2015 - 2:17 pm
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 Hi Ness,

Thanks for the reply.

the stair does have a wall on the left. By that do you mean that 50mm by 300mm boards for a cut string should be sufficient? I’va also been looking through your online materials and am still not sure what is the best way to attach 2 parts of a string (or cut string in this case)  would you suggest a bolt dowel and glue connection? 

Many thanks

Daniel

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Ness

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September 21, 2015 - 12:35 pm
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Hi Dan,

Can you specify if there is a wall on the left ?

If there is a wall you don’t need an extra wide stringer to hang from the trimmer.

On the other hand if there is no wall you’ll need a handrail.

I attach your model with a few tweaks that will make it more buildable.

You’ll have to modify this according to the walls.

3d-01-01v01.jpgImage Enlarger

All the best,

Ness

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September 17, 2015 - 9:05 pm
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Hi Ness,

Sorry about the delay in response.

I’ve decided to go for a dancing pine stair (any suggestions?). I know it is not as hard wearing but I hope it will last well if treated (and well treated).

I’ve added the stair file as i’ve managed to get the stair to look close enough to what I would like, though I’m unsure about the standard spindle spacing and newel post height. I’ve had to work outside of the stair rule due to the space i have to work with, but it is within building regs.

I intend to attach the left hand cut string the wall and plan to attach the winder string to a hanger board off of a 175mm double trimmer. I’ve attached a paint screenshot

The woodwork I’ve done so far is mainly joist hanging, though i’ve done a lot of preparation for this project. I’ve got a few relevant  power tools (compound mitre saw, circular saw, and a router) but will add to the collection in order to get the project done (again any recommendations?).

I know a dancing stair is a bit ambitious for a first try at a staircase but it seems so much more pleasant.

thanks or your thoughts

DanUntitled.pngImage Enlarger

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Ness

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July 27, 2015 - 3:35 pm
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Hello Daniel,

Thanks for joining the Wood Designer forum and posting your questions.

Beech is a good substitute for oak, much cheaper, it is hard,  wear resistant and well adapted to stairbuilding. 

It’s important to work with dry wood (less than 10% humidity). If you are working with rough dry timber there is no need to laminate 2 thicknesses to avoid warping.

If you are using pre -manufactured laminated boards these are usually well dried and will not warp.

To advise you on the string sizes and whether they will need reinforcing as well as the time to build, I’ll need some more information on your project.

Can you post the StairDesigner file so that we can see the project and also tell us how to plan to go about the construction, as well as the resources in tools and experience you have in wood work and in stair building.

Don’t forget that, as a full member, you also have access to a range of ebooks on stair building that you can find in the Wood Designer library.

https://wooddesigner.org/membe…..ry/stairs/

All the best,

Ness

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July 26, 2015 - 3:24 pm
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 Hi all,

I’m a amatur wood worker in the middle of my home renovation and i’ve decided to take on a project of building my stairs. I’m hoping I can get some advice on a few things. I intend to build a open string straight flight with with a 3 step winder at the top. I’ve managed to get it planned out in stairdesigner for the most part but still have some tweeking to do.

I wanted a professional opinion on what wood would give a nice clean light look for a staircase. I initially wanted to go with white oak but want to watch to costing. is beech a good alternative?

I would like to have thick treads and risers and have read that laminating two thinner boards are best to avoid warping in future?(40-45mm). These will protrude beyond the stingboard on one side and rest on it on the other.

Understanding that notching like this will weaken the carriage i’m I right in assuming i will have to extend it by laminating underneath?

In addition what would you say a realistic timescale for building stairs would be?

Many thanks

Daniel

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