Ness said
Hi Stig,

I’ve changed the StairDesigner model of you stair so that the steps are recessed 15mm and notched around the posts.

Here are the new DXF files, hope this is helpful.

Note that you will have to adjust some steps and reduce the recess as in this example….

You have to cut the step so that the notch doesn’t wrap around the post and not recess the string.

All the best,

Ness

great ! thanks

Ness said
Hi Stig,

No don’t cut the steps into the posts 35mm this will certainly weaken the post.

The steps should be  cut into the posts 15mm and the steps are notched around the post:

 

The DXF stair files I sent were not correct as the step recess into the posts was set at 30 and not 15 .

Sorry but I didn’t see this before.

The easiest way to adjust is to mark out the steps as they are and reduce the step collets.

All the best,

Ness

Ok, but its not that easy to reduce the step collet. If the DXF files had a layer where the post were included, it would be easy. With the DXF file that i have, i have to construct the post first then !?

Ness said
Hi Sig,

Nice to see you back on the forum.

The 2 outlines are the inside and outside of the stringers.

The outsides go the full maximum length. You have to draw the joints manually within the 2 outlines.

In all cases do not use a mitre as drawn in StairDesigner. Mitres are hard to make and not at all strong.

Otherwise, you can use any type of joint you want, here are a couple of options:

Crochet joint allows screwing in both directions and make for a simple saw cut and very strong joint:

Rebate and screw allows to have one string face with no screws, so good if one string’s outer face is visible:

Just screwed, very easy to make but less strong than the crochet and shows the end grain of a stringer if used when one stringer face is visible:

Corner steps housing in stringers are marked going beyond the stringer. You can either stop the housing so as not have it showing on the outside of the stringer, but in most cases just cut it beyond the stinger.

The  newels on your stair are 80×80, you should house the steps about 15mm into the posts.

This will leave a continuous 65×65 of wood that is easily enough for structural purposes.

hope this is helpful,

All the best,

Ness

PS: For more details on stair assembly, joints etc. have a look at my stair ebooks downloadable from here:

https://wooddesigner.org/membe…..airs/core/

Thanks for all help Ness,

I will do the first joint i guess, its easy to modify that one.

And will also house the steps into the posts. But i dont understand that it will leave 65×65 on the posts. because steps are penetrating 15mm into stringers, and stringers are 40 mm, and the stringers is in the middle of the posts. Then i guess the step, will penetrate post by 35mm, right ? 

Hi Ness,

I have been very busy this year, so i havent had time to do my own stair yet, but now i have to try finishing it 🙂

Have some questions though, im looking at right stringer 2 & 3. What is contour 2 in the CAD drawing ? can i choose to use contour 2 on either stringer 2 or 3? Or should i use contour 2 on both, and then mitre those two stringers ?

And when i look at the right stringer 2 and 3 in CAD, the step in the corner, is going beyond even the contour 2…? I dont understand this..

And then the newel posts, i was wondering about not penetrating the steps into the posts, but then i see some of the steps needs a lot of cutting, specially by the corner-post. But if i penetrate the steps into the posts, the posts will almost be cutted off 🙂

I hope you can help me with this, thanks.

Thanks for all help Ness,

Will get back with some photos, hopefully