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Stairdesigner files and info|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
October 4, 2012
Hi Luke,
Good to know all is well.
Keep us updated on progress.
All the best,
Ness
October 4, 2012
Hi luke,
Thanks for nudging me, your StairFile actually got lost in my list of to-does, sorry about that…..
I attach the files for your stair.
All the best,
Ness
Hi Ness,
Thanks for looking the stairs for me, I’ve added the landing step as you suggested, and moved the newel to suit. I hadn’t realised that was how to do that, so thanks for spotting it!
I didn’t mean to add any recesses, and have unselected ‘perpendicular penetration in stringboards’. Was that the culprit?
I like the winders, and don’t mind the challenge of them. It is also what the client has chosen, so I’d better keep them. I messed about with moving the steps, to see if there was a compromise to be found in making the steps a little straighter, and am thinking of keeping it like this (i will straighten the strings and hand rail on the plan) What do you think? I did give up after a little while of ‘messing about’ with the ‘move step’ feature, so please free to tweak them if you can see a better configuration/easier build that keeps the winders.
I have lengthened the newel to the ground as you suggested.
Kind regards
Luke
October 4, 2012
Hi Luke,
Thanks for buying a StairFile service.
Looking at your project, I’ve noticed one or two things that you might be able to tweak.
– you haven’t set a landing step. this means that the stair is calculated to the last step nosing. You might find it useful to add a landing step so that the stair is calculated to behind the last step. In this way the last riser is assembled into the post and landing step, which make for a neater finish and a more robust fixing to the first floor. In general you would not put a landing step only if you are really tight for space and need the extra tread line, whereas in your case you have plenty of room.
I attach a model with the landing step set to 100mm and the last post set flush behind it. This means that the post will rest against the first floor joist, which may or may not be what you want. You can however adjust the post position as you need it.
– You have added recesses to the front and back of the step housings. The front is set back 150mm which seems a lot. Is there a specific reason for this? If not I personally would not use a recess, but if you do I would only set it back a coupe of centimeters at the most. What do you think?
– Your stair is set up with all the steps tapered. You might find it easier to build them if winders are limited to the turning and the string boards and handrails are set to straight. I have done this in the attached model.
– I have also set the intermediate newel to sit on the floor.
– To make cutting the housing easier I’ve adjusted the step housings around the newel so that they sit better on the newel faces.
As I don’t know the exact configuration of your project, these are of course just suggestions, so feel free to adjust as you feel necessary.
All the best,
Ness
Hi Stefan,
Thought I had attached the updated file, did you not receive it? I didn’t change much, just the width of the strings and the height above the nosings was all, I think.
I’ll try and add it again.
I’ll put together a little sketch now, rather than trying to explain it in words.
Many thanks
Luke
November 8, 2013
Hi Luke, sounds rough, glad you’ve pretty much made it through to the other side. Thanks for the order, we’ll wait until you’ve uploaded the revised design then take a proper look at it. The more info you have on the stairwell and the project in general, the better. All the best, Stefan
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