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CLARIFY: Adding cabinet pull-outs/hardware/pull-down doors
November 8, 2016
10:27 am
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Ness

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Hi Jack,

I attach a pdf that explains the Polyboard XY conventions.

All the best,

Ness

November 5, 2016
9:46 pm
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Jack Travis

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Ness said

Hi Jack,

In general you have to import the 3D dxf file into SketchUp. This is only possible if you have the pro version of SketchUp.

If you have only the free version, I have made the conversion for you and attached the SketchUp file.

All the best,

Ness

su020.pngImage Enlarger

su010.pngImage Enlarger

Hi Ness;
I AM READING THE SINGLE PART DETAIL SHEETS IN PROFLE PRINT MODE AND HAVING TROUBLE DEFINING THE X/Y AXIS DRAWING WITH THE TEXT……..AND THEREFORE FRONT/BACK FACES. PLEASE CLARIFY. JACK

November 4, 2016
4:52 pm
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Ness

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Hi Jack,

In general you have to import the 3D dxf file into SketchUp. This is only possible if you have the pro version of SketchUp.

If you have only the free version, I have made the conversion for you and attached the SketchUp file.

All the best,

Ness

su020.pngImage Enlarger

su010.pngImage Enlarger

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November 4, 2016
4:03 pm
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Hi Ness:
Material looks good. On my way to order lumber.

Tried to load into sketchup with no luck. Which file should load and any instruction would be appreciated.

All the best,
Jack

Ness said

Hi Jack, 

This a compressed file that contains the original Polyboard model as well as:

– a pdf folder with the cutting lists, general plans, detailed plans of each part, labels for each part and 3D views of the cabinet

– a dxf folder that contains 2D files that can used in CAD programs (or to run a CNC) as well as a 3D DXF model that you can load into 3D presentation  software.

to open these files right click the zipped file and do extract (decompress) them to your hard disk.

You will then be able to open the Polyboard model in Polyboard and print the pdf documents with a pdf reader like Adobe.

the DXf files can be opened with a CAD program like AutoCad , Draftsight or SketchUp.

All the best,

Ness

November 3, 2016
4:52 pm
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Ness

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Hi Jack, 

This a compressed file that contains the original Polyboard model as well as:

– a pdf folder with the cutting lists, general plans, detailed plans of each part, labels for each part and 3D views of the cabinet

– a dxf folder that contains 2D files that can used in CAD programs (or to run a CNC) as well as a 3D DXF model that you can load into 3D presentation  software.

to open these files right click the zipped file and do extract (decompress) them to your hard disk.

You will then be able to open the Polyboard model in Polyboard and print the pdf documents with a pdf reader like Adobe.

the DXf files can be opened with a CAD program like AutoCad , Draftsight or SketchUp.

All the best,

Ness

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November 3, 2016
4:41 pm
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Ness said

Hi Jack,

Here are your production documents.

I hope you enjoy building this project.

I’d very interested to see how you build this so don’t hesitate to post any photos you have.

Also don’t hesitate to post any questions if you need advise on the build.

All the best,

Ness

DO I OPPEN THIS IN POLYBOARD? WHERE?

November 3, 2016
4:27 pm
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Ness

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Hi Jack,

Here are your production documents.

I hope you enjoy building this project.

I’d very interested to see how you build this so don’t hesitate to post any photos you have.

Also don’t hesitate to post any questions if you need advise on the build.

All the best,

Ness

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November 3, 2016
3:26 pm
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Ness said

Hi Jack,

No problem for the thicknesses, however there are 2 last consideration you should be aware of before we process your project:

1- The type of panels are you are going to use will depend on your local suppliers and sometimes real thicknesses can vary or the local supplier may not have 19mm but 18mm panels. I BUY FROM THE MILL AND GET THE SIZE I WILL NEED. I ALSO HAVE PLANING CAPABILITY.

For this reason I always suggest that you buy or at least make sure of the exact panel thicknesses before we process a project.

2- When made with panel materials it’s usual to glue veneers on the visible edges of the panels. This hides the rather nasty end grain of plywood or MDF etc. The thickness of the edging material is then deducted from the total width of the panel in the cutting lists. NO EDGING. I LIKE IT NATURAL.

Standard edging thicknesses can vary from 0.8mm to 2 or 3mm. Or you may want to glue solid wood edging in this case we’ll need to know the exact thickness you’re going to use.

If you don’t know what to do I’d suggest you go to your local supplier and ask his advice on what material will be readily available.

We’ll then do the final set up of the project with the correct thicknesses and edging.

On the other hand if you are sure you don’t want edging and the panels thicknesses are exact I’ll process the production documents.
ONLY THING I NOTICED IS I WILL PULL THE BASE(PLINTH) PARALLEL WITH THE FRONT FRONT. IF THIS A PROBLEM I WILL ADJUST WHEN CUTTING. THANKS, JACK
All the best,

Ness

November 3, 2016
3:08 pm
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Ness

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Hi Jack,

No problem for the thicknesses, however there are 2 last consideration you should be aware of before we process your project:

1- The type of panels are you are going to use will depend on your local suppliers and sometimes real thicknesses can vary or the local supplier may not have 19mm but 18mm panels.

For this reason I always suggest that you buy or at least make sure of the exact panel thicknesses before we process a project.

2- When made with panel materials it’s usual to glue veneers on the visible edges of the panels. This hides the rather nasty end grain of plywood or MDF etc. The thickness of the edging material is then deducted from the total width of the panel in the cutting lists.

Standard edging thicknesses can vary from 0.8mm to 2 or 3mm. Or you may want to glue solid wood edging in this case we’ll need to know the exact thickness you’re going to use.

If you don’t know what to do I’d suggest you go to your local supplier and ask his advice on what material will be readily available.

We’ll then do the final set up of the project with the correct thicknesses and edging.

On the other hand if you are sure you don’t want edging and the panels thicknesses are exact I’ll process the production documents.

All the best,

Ness

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November 3, 2016
2:57 pm
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Ness said

Hi Jack,

What handles are you going to use?

If the thicknesses are all OK I can send you the working documents.

However, note that this project is set up using panel material with no edging.

You might want to add edging to have the correct panel cutting lists.

Please take time to check all the details of the attached Polyboard model before I process your project.

The cabinet file service allows only one production document output per project so future processing will require purchasing another CabinetFile.

All the best,

Ness

NESS
I WILL NOT BE USING EDGING, JUST FINE SANDING. LET’S PROCESS THE DESIGN. YOU’RE THE BEST.
JACK

November 3, 2016
2:47 pm
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Ness:
I went through the bill of materials:
3/4″: top, sides, uprights, shelves, doors, plinth, uprights, and divides.
5/8″: drawer sides, bottoms, back, and fronts.
These look good to me, what am I missing?
Thanks,
Jack

November 3, 2016
2:36 pm
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Ness

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Hi Jack,

What handles are you going to use?

If the thicknesses are all OK I can send you the working documents.

However, note that this project is set up using panel material with no edging.

You might want to add edging to have the correct panel cutting lists.

Please take time to check all the details of the attached Polyboard model before I process your project.

The cabinet file service allows only one production document output per project so future processing will require purchasing another CabinetFile.

All the best,

Ness

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November 3, 2016
2:22 pm
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Hi Ness,
I like the look of version jack01v02-1-3D with the handles I intend to use. Can we take that one to press?
Thanks,
Jack

Ness said

Hi Jack,

I would suggest that you have 2 options:

Fastest and simplest option, you want a clean modern design with flush facades : build with veneered oak panels

Second option, you want a more traditional look with framed doors and drawer fronts : build carcass with veneered panels and facades with thinner veneered panels and solid framing.

The second option requires adding assembly details to facades:

3d-oak-framed010.pngImage Enlarger

3d-oak-framed020.pngImage Enlarger

In both cases we need to know the final thickness of all the different parts.

All the best,

Ness

November 3, 2016
8:07 am
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Ness

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Hi Jack,

I would suggest that you have 2 options:

Fastest and simplest option, you want a clean modern design with flush facades : build with veneered oak panels

Second option, you want a more traditional look with framed doors and drawer fronts : build carcass with veneered panels and facades with thinner veneered panels and solid framing.

The second option requires adding assembly details to facades:

3d-oak-framed010.pngImage Enlarger

3d-oak-framed020.pngImage Enlarger

In both cases we need to know the final thickness of all the different parts.

All the best,

Ness

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October 31, 2016
2:40 pm
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Ness said

 Hi Jack,

HI NESS,
THE PICTURE LOOKS GREAT!

In this version I’ve set the materials to “generic 0190” type 3/4 (19mm) and “generic 0160”  3/8 (16mm).

OK
I’ve also adjusted the top side drawers so that they are the same facade height.

GREAT

3d-oak.pngImage Enlarger

If you are making this in solid wood you’ll should use a frame and panel structure to set this up click a panel and then go to the properties Structure>edit>assembly.

YOU LOST ME. DO YOU WANT ME TO CHANGE THE CABINET STRUCTURE?

See this video: 6. Using Quick Design Panels Structures Libraries 

on the Quick Design  advanced page here:

https://wooddesigner.org/member…..-advanced/

WATCHED THE VIDEO BUT HAD TROUBLE FOLLOWING. AM I TO MAKE THESE CHANGES AND APPLY TO ENTIRE STRUCTURE.?

However, you might consider using framed construction for the doors and drawer facades but sheet material for the carcass. This would make the build easier and much faster.

I AM OK DOING THIS, BUT IS THIS FOR THE CABINET WE HAVE BEEN WORKING ON, OR DOES IT RELATE TO THE BOOKSHELF QUESTION I HAD?

It all depends on the style you looking for.

Do you have any photos that would show us what you are aiming at?

All the best,

Ness

THANKS NESS

October 31, 2016
1:26 pm
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 Hi Jack,

In this version I’ve set the materials to “generic 0190” type 3/4 (19mm) and “generic 0160”  3/8 (16mm).

I’ve also adjusted the top side drawers so that they are the same facade height.

3d-oak.pngImage Enlarger

If you are making this in solid wood you’ll should use a frame and panel structure to set this up click a panel and then go to the properties Structure>edit>assembly.

See this video: 6. Using Quick Design Panels Structures Libraries 

on the Quick Design  advanced page here:

https://wooddesigner.org/member…..-advanced/

However, you might consider using framed construction for the doors and drawer facades but sheet material for the carcass. This would make the build easier and much faster.

It all depends on the style you looking for.

Do you have any photos that would show us what you are aiming at?

All the best,

Ness

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October 30, 2016
2:57 pm
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Ness:
My library extension is -en. Don’t know why I am getting the French?
Jack

October 30, 2016
2:50 pm
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Ness said

Hi Jack,

Thanks for your feed back.

For the materials, when you say red oak do you mean you are using solid timber, laminated board or veneered boards?

THAT IS SOLID TIMBER.

The finished thickness’s can be different as well as if you are using veneered boards we’ll have to set up edging. SOLID TIMBER

In the actual design there is also different wood for the facades and carcass, do you want to keep this? FACADES WILL ALSO BE OAK,SOLID TIMBER. I COULD NOT FIGURE OUT HOW TO PUT A FACADE ON A BOOKCASE I AM WORKIMG ON. WHERE DO I NEED TO LOOK?

As well as this as you are using the standard Quick Design (french named) materials  the backs are in 8mm(15/16″) and the drawers bottoms are set to 16mm(5/8″).

I would suggest that you harmonise the materials either by only using 3/4″ and 5/8″ boards by setting the back to 5/8″or set the drawer bottoms to 8mm as well which will make the drawers lighter and cheaper to build. LET’S GO WITH 5/8″ ON BOTH.

materials.pngImage Enlarger

Grain direction can be set for each board in the Properties>Materials options:

grain.pngImage Enlarger

Otherwise great project and I’m looking forwards to seeing it built.

All the best,

THANKS! JACK

Ness

October 30, 2016
8:51 am
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Ness

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Hi Jack,

Thanks for your feed back.

For the materials, when you say red oak do you mean you are using solid timber, laminated board or veneered boards?

The finished thickness’s can be different as well as if you are using veneered boards we’ll have to set up edging.

In the actual design there is also different wood for the facades and carcass, do you want to keep this?

As well as this as you are using the standard Quick Design (french named) materials  the backs are in 8mm(15/16″) and the drawers bottoms are set to 16mm(5/8″).

I would suggest that you harmonise the materials either by only using 3/4″ and 5/8″ boards by setting the back to 5/8″or set the drawer bottoms to 8mm as well which will make the drawers lighter and cheaper to build.

materials.pngImage Enlarger

Grain direction can be set for each board in the Properties>Materials options:

grain.pngImage Enlarger

Otherwise great project and I’m looking forwards to seeing it built.

All the best,

Ness

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October 29, 2016
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Ness said

Hi Jack,

It’s possible that you can’t load my model because your Polyboard is not up to date.
I UPDATED THE SOFTWARE AND THAT DID THE TRICK.

To correct this, just go to the download page and reinstall.

For you design the easiest way to add a base would be to create a plinth and extend the sides. I wanted to suggest you add a base like this but forgot to mention it in my last post.
LOOKS GREAT.

I’ve set up some hardware that applies the dowel slider stop to a sliding shelf. Here’s a screen capture of a simple cabinet with the hardware applied:

dowel-slider-stop.pngImage Enlarger

I’ve also added it to your model and the side and sliding shelf look like this now:
THANKS.

side-and-dowel-stop.pngImage Enlarger

I’ve made the following adjustments to your design: LOVE IT.

– made the facade elements to be flush

– made all joints blind dodos which make for a much cleaner design.

– extended the top over the front 

– added a base

3d020.pngImage Enlarger

This design should work fine and you can tweak the file I’m sending.

The only problem is the sliding shelf pulls.

To keep the clean design, I would put a “push to open” latch  to the back of the shelf so that a push on the front will release the spring and push the shelf out. Pushing the shelf back in will click the ratchet and the shelf will then stay in place.
LOVE THE CLEAN DESIGN. LET’S UDE THE ‘PUSH TO OPEN’. I WILL THEN USE KNOBS AND HANDLES ON THE DOORS AND MAIN DRAWERS.

You might also consider using a push to open drawer sliders that would then also replace the dowel stops.

To finalise the design we also need to do now is to set up the correct materials. I WILL BE USING RED OAK BUT . I TRIED TO ADD TO THE STRUCTURE BUT COULD NOT GET THE GRAIN DIRECTION. I AM THINKING HORIZONTAL FOR THE DRAWERS AND MAYBE VERTICLE ON THE DOORS FOR STRENGTH?
WHERE IS SPECIFIC GRAIN DIRECTION ON THE MENU?
You have designed using Quick Design  materials and for some reason you are using the French version of the libraries. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND. I DO NOT SEE ANY FRENCH.

Can you post the real thicknesses of the different panels you’ll be using? THIS HAS ME BAFFLED. I SEE THE USE OF 3/4″ AND 5/8″. WHAT AM I MISSING?

All the best, THANKS. LOOKS LIKE WE ARE THERE AND I AM GETTING TO BUILD SOMETHING.

Ness

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