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Alcove cabinets and shelves
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jimbouk

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May 18, 2014 - 7:43 pm
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terry said
Thanks for that Jim. Will give your method a try on the next job. Does the 20mm thickness effect using the standard 107 blum clip hinges? Do I need a different hinge for a thicker door?

Im a big fan of Gary……..have watched a lot of his videos in the past. This one I hadn’t seen though so cheers. Re the festool…… I would love to own some of that gear….Im really just starting out in doing cabinetry full time so as I progress and gain more work the domino is near the top of that list. At the moment I’m getting by with just screws/sometimes glue, but sometimes on bigger jobs I simply cannot pre assemble particulary wardrobe jobs so I had to assemble on the job site. 

Thats a pain really and I can see how the domino would make alignment of parts much easier.

Thanks Jim

 

Terry

Hi Terry,

 

The standard blum clip ons should be fine up to 22mm I think, also I have a great supplier for hardware. 

http://www.hart-wholesale.com/

easy to deal with and will help out with any questions like that. next day delivery and can order online or over the phone.

hope that helps.

Jim

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terry

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May 18, 2014 - 6:23 pm
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Thanks for that Jim. Will give your method a try on the next job. Does the 20mm thickness effect using the standard 107 blum clip hinges? Do I need a different hinge for a thicker door?

Im a big fan of Gary……..have watched a lot of his videos in the past. This one I hadn’t seen though so cheers. Re the festool…… I would love to own some of that gear….Im really just starting out in doing cabinetry full time so as I progress and gain more work the domino is near the top of that list. At the moment I’m getting by with just screws/sometimes glue, but sometimes on bigger jobs I simply cannot pre assemble particulary wardrobe jobs so I had to assemble on the job site. 

Thats a pain really and I can see how the domino would make alignment of parts much easier.

Thanks Jim

 

Terry

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jimbouk

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May 18, 2014 - 5:21 pm
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Terry,

Nearly all the time if we are doing them out of mdf we use this method for constructing them 4 +12 +4.

If we need to do them using solid timber we use a router table to run a groove in the rails and stiles but stop it short of the point the rail/stile meets. Then we use a festool domino joiner to make the mortice and tennon joint, this is an awesome tool and makes a really strong no movement joint. Only takes a few mins to do a whole door this way :)

Something like this

This guy does some great instructional vids by the way.

 

Jimbo

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terry

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May 18, 2014 - 12:07 pm
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Thanks Jim

Good idea. On the next job like this I was going to try 6+6+6=18mm as this will still leave a good definition to the front

recess. Im not sure if the 6mm panel piece will be flat enough though. I like the idea of also have the framed aspect inside the door

too. If I get enough call for this type of work and I think I will as most of my clients seem to live in period Victorian houses then I 

will look into a table saw and try and get set up to do them the grooved way. Ive watched a few youtube videos and it doesnt look

too difficult to teach myself.

 

Cheers for the feedback

 

Terry

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jimbouk

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May 18, 2014 - 7:36 am
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Terry, 

If you dont have access to the equipment to make the doors the traditional way but are worried about warping on larger sizes just use different thickness mdf. It needs to be balanced eg. 3mm 12mm 3mm total of 18mm or 4mm 12mm 4mm. Use the same tecnique to make them.

 

You can also oversize them slightly then trim off the excess to get really good edges.

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Ness

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March 13, 2014 - 7:02 am
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Hi Terry,

Nice job .

Not sure what you need in the way of videos.

Have you seen this one that shows how to set up framed panels.

All the best,

Ness

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terry

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March 12, 2014 - 11:49 am
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I used Polyboard to help with the design etc of this small piece of work.

I used simple 6mm fixed to 12mm to create the shaker look doors. I’m not yet set up to do these doors

the proper way with a grooved panel into the styles and rails so I just made them with this simple technique using

a brad nailer and glue. Kept them weighed down whilst the glue dried and they didn’t really warp too significantly but I doubt

I’d want to do larger doors this way.

I didn’t work out how to design the doors properly on Polyboard as i was against the clock and had to get the job done but 

I’d like it if Ness can elaborate more at some stage. I know it has kind of been covered in a couple of videos but they seem to focus

on the correct way of making them.

 

Cheers Tel

 

photo-2.JPGImage Enlarger

 

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