Wood Designer forum
Several questions designing a wardrobe|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
Moderator
August 10, 2026
OfflineHello Paul,
Exporting: Yes, you will receive the DXF files for all the cut parts. For more info please check the link: Cabinetfile-service.
TV Cabinet:
– That warning sign appears due the groove tooling between the back panel and the side panels. If you change the connection to “Recess” it will disappear. If you want to keep it, don’t worry it’s doesn’t affect the cabinet structure.
– In order to have equal width space for the drawers, select the fixed uprights and set the same distance from left and right side (avoid using .5mm / .9mm values).
For drawers basic design tutorial please check the link: Polyboard-basic-design.
– Based on my experience I would create a cabinet that I would cover (top and sides) with mitre-joint panel. I would fix the outside shell with screws from the inside of teh cabinet. (I might even consider creating the cabinet from 3 modules). Otherwise, mitre-joint connection requires special fittings!
Fittings:
– Yes a 90 degree hinge will do. Be careful though, for the cabinets where you have drawers, add a 2nd panel on the side with the hinges just for the zone with the drawers to distance the drawers from the hinges. When opening the door, the hinges push the doors inside like ~9mm. Just to avoid that the drawers get stuck by the corner of the door.
– I will check the technical details for the Hettich hinges and be back with an asnwer.
Regards, Petru

Full
September 23, 2026
OfflineHi Petru,
Thanks for the tip for the plinths!
I have attached the current state of both projects!
I have summarized the remaining questions I asked over multiple posts so it has more overview for you:
Exporting
– Another question, I think I’m finishe with the cabinets after this. I can send the file to export to cut list on the website I see, but do I also receive DXF files to send to woodmaker for the CNC cuts?
Tv cabinet
– I have added a mitre joinery on the outside panels, now I see this orange warning on calculating sizes.
– I want to add even drawer spacing but I’m not able to change the distance between the two drawers? I want to add push-to-open rails so the spacing from top drawer to other drawer or to top of zone can be 15mm. How to achieve this?
– Is this construction with mitre joint side connections and 18mm particle board? Or does this need a second inside frame?
Fittings:
– I’m looking into hinges for the large wardrobe, which hettich hinges do you recommend? I think they need to open at most 90 degrees to not intefere with the wall or other drawers next to it? How do I find the real product based on the Polyboard shortcuts codes?
– For the tv cabinet we thought of adding drop flap hinge, possibly hettich klassik and markant, but I don’t think those are included in the Polyboard library right? And these will interfere a bit with the drawers I think.
Moderator
August 10, 2026
OfflineHello Paul,
I agree with the hidden fittings (dowel and minifix / rafix / lamello cabineo), just make sure that the rules are fitted for the small depth / width of your cabinets.
For the plinth you have three options:
1. If you want one plinth with the size of your wardrobe width, create a new cabinet (width x depth = your actual wardrobe sizes), in the right “Properties” menu, set the external zone for the plinth of 70 mm (or whatever value you need). Make the bottom of your cabinet to overpass all the other elements of your cabinet (sides and back). Make all the cabinet panels as “Nil” panels and set the cabinet height to 70 mm (same height of the plinth). Now you can add plinths on all sides of the plinth zone.
2. If you want plinths for each cabinet, simply make your bottom panel overpass the sides and the back panel. This unlocks the ability to add plinths for all four sides of the cabinets and for them to be flush with the cabinet.
3. With the bottom panel underpassing the sides and the back, add an external zone for the plinth, select the side / the back panel and overlap them over the bottom panel with the value = to the plinth height.

Regards, Petru

Full
September 23, 2026
OfflineHi Petru,
Two more questions on fittings.
– I’m looking into hinges for the large wardrobe, which hettich hinges do you recommend? I think they need to open at most 90 degrees to not intefere with the wall or other drawers next to it? How do I find the real product based on the Polyboard shortcuts codes?
– For the tv cabinet we thought of adding drop flap hinge, possibly hettich klassik and markant, but I don’t think those are included in the Polyboard library right? And these will interfere a bit with the drawers I think.

Full
September 23, 2026
OfflineHi Petru,
I have just designed another cabinet (more straight forward) as a tv cabinet. I have two questions.
– I have added a mitre joinery on the outside panels, now I see this orange warning on calculating sizes.
– I want to add even drawer spacing but I’m not able to change the distance between the two drawers? I want to add push-to-open rails so the spacing from top drawer to other drawer or to top of zone can be 15mm. How to achieve this?
Thanks again!

Full
September 23, 2026
OfflineHi Petru,
Those are great tips! thanks.
I think I’ll pass on the fitting links for small cabinets and their top panels, I rather prefer no visible fittings, either a dowel or a screw from the (invisible side) top.
I do have a questions on adding a plinth, as it removes part of my side panel? see screenshot. I have this issue with model. I add a double back or a free division while I need to overpass it onto the side panels to fully coverage the front.
Best regards,
Paul
Moderator
August 10, 2026
OfflineHello Paul,
It looks verry good now. That’s exactly what I had in mind. I would go one step further and I would split the “Model” cabinets (or all of them) in two levels. The base level, 2070 mm (plinth=70mm) and upper level, 700 mm. Easier to transport, to handle, to modify if ever needed.
Some mentions:
– For the cabinet “Model” I would get rid of the plinths from the sides and the back. They are not visible, extra material, and block the air ventilation under the wardrobe. It is up to you though since you know best what the final result should look like;
– For the cabinet “Model”, for the upper zone, you have used “Regular Drillings…” but you have put a fixed shelf as well. I imagine you want an adjustable shelf, reason why I recommend using a “Shelf No hardware” and in the Regular Drillings menu, set up a “Threshold of the upper (and lower) Drilling” of ~200 mm (or less, up to you);
I have also changed the rule to add a 3rd column of drillings in the middle. (see bellow picture)
– Still for cabinet “Model” move the last hinge at the bottom up by ~100mm in order not to block the lower drawer; (see below picture)
– For the cabinets “Model[1]” and “Model[2]” modify the fittings rules and adapt them based on the cabinets small depth (width). To do so, go into cabinet edit mode -> Modify (from the top menus bar) -> Fitting Links List… (see bellow pictures)
Regards, Petru

Full
September 23, 2026
OfflineHi,
I was thinking on how you meant it was complicated, and I think because I did not make use of all individual cabinets. I have now splitted everything into single cabinets, making it also easier to not duplicate everything 3 times manually for the center part. What do you think?
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