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Woodworking machinery SCM L`invicible 2000d - horizontal slot mortiser - how to use this.
September 16, 2014
4:18 pm
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per birger movik

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Ness,

actually you describe my own experience so far. Vibration might come as an issue here. I will try drilling first and then clean up with moving the piece sideways.

Keep up your good work. Thanks!

Per Birger

September 16, 2014
3:53 pm
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Ness

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Hi again,

the mortising technique that you use depends on the type of mortise bit that you are using. Some mortising bits can cut sideways, while others will only have an end cut.
Although bits that cut sideways can cut a mortise by moving back and forwards you will find that this will create certain problems with the mortising machine that you will be using.
Because although this works with a router bit on a router there will be certain differences between the bit you be using on your machine and a router.
The first difference will be that the router will be turning the bit at above 20,000 rpm, whereas the combination worker will be only turning at 3000 or up to 6000 rpm.
The high-speed is necessary to cut sideways smoothly and not get chatter. At 6000 rpm the sideway cut will create vibrations on the end of the bit and eventually variations in the width of the mortise.
The next difference will be the length of bit. The length of the bit determines the maximum depth of your mortise. Mortising bits are usually far longer than the standard router bit so end vibrations when cutting material sideways will increased because of the leverage effect. This usually makes it much more liable to vibration when cutting sideways with the tip of the bit.
For this reason, even though I use often mortising bits that can cut sideways like a router bit, I would always drill overlapping holes into the mortise before cleaning up the sides with a lateral sideways movement.
The router type mortising bit will deliver a cleaner interface surface to the mortise than a simple drilling bit, so it is preferable to use a router type mortising bit, but if the mortises are over a couple of centimetres deep. I would certainly still drill perpendicular holes into piece before moving sideways.

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per birger movik
September 16, 2014
2:51 pm
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per birger movik

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Thank You Stefan, really marvelous that you have contacts within the manufacture organization. Splendid if I might say. Looked into the parts overview. There are some parts that I now will let go in the junk. Some other parts, I will look further into. 

Thank You Ness, I appreciate your response. I have tried to acquire information about the mortising technic used too. You describe the best method as drilling holes first. I presume as many as possible between the end points. Then going sideways. Others have explained doing this process as a router. Carving 5mm depth at a time en full width. Obviously this method claims for a stop mechanism. I am not sure what is being the correct way. Are there any videos in the Wooddesigner shelfs?

The reason why I was aiming for the manual is that there are parts coming with the machine, that I do not understand (how are used). I presumed this would be visible in a manual. 

I will post a pic of my door as soon as I am back in operation.

Per Birger

September 16, 2014
2:35 pm
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Stefan

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Hi again, I’ve just emailed you a copy of the manual I received (it’s a little bit too big to attach here). More of a parts list than user manual unfortunately. Sounds like Ness is going to be a lot more help…

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per birger movik
September 16, 2014
2:18 pm
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Ness

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Hello per burger,

SCM is a nice little combination woodworking machine.
I used SCM spindle moulder/circular saw for many years in my workshop and found it a very practical machine as it has a sliding table enables you to cross cut and tenon without changing tools.
Using this type of combination woodworker is in fact quite simple. For mortises you mark the width of the mortise on the edge of piece of wood, place it on the edge of the table, and then with a mortising bit in the chuck and the depth stop adjusted drill holes that overlap to create mortise. To even off mortise flanks, slide the table, left and right once or twice.

Just tell me if you need a short video to explain .

All the best,
Ness

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per birger movik
September 16, 2014
2:14 pm
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Stefan

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Hi Per Birger,

I’ve just spoken to the manufacturer who said they would confirm either way by email in the next 1-2 days. Cheers

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per birger movik
September 16, 2014
12:28 pm
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per birger movik

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Hello,

I am in the process of carpeting doors for my boat. The doors are all special sizes. To be put together by solid oak. I figured Ill use loose tenons. 

I have been given the opportunity to borrow a woodworking machine. The machine is known as SCM L`invicible 2000d (later models C35 and MiniMax). The machine has a 5 tool configuration. This is thicknesser, planer, circular tablesaw, table mortiser and horizontal mortiser. There are a few parts included. However, there a no manual. 

This machine is green, 700 – 800 kgs, it has i fixed rotating part and a table with a table that is to be adjusted in veridical direction with a wheel (2mm/r). There are handles that suggest that the table could be moved in the plane during mortising. However there are no end stops in sideway operation. There are a depth stop, but this is by a bold (very static). 

As unknown I am with this equipment I hope that I am able to gain some assistance from this forum. 

L’INVINCIBLE 2000d

I have seen this machine for sale on the net. But nobody seems to have the instruction manual. http://www.forestry.co.za/equi…..mbination/

Basically I need help to know how I am doing mortising with the horizontal mortiser. I see there are quite a few brands with similar setup; griggio, Felder, Rye, SCM…….but nobody with the manual. Anybody has a manual or other literature to help me using this machine?

Per Birger

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