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Blum tandem video
June 23, 2014
6:02 pm
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terry

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Thats explained it perfectly Ness. I was 90 per cent there yesterday and it was getting late so couldn’t quite figure how to change the method that i’d already set up. As you say its much better to have set methods for different situations and now I know how to create all my different methods for different drawer construction depending on the job in hand.

Thank you very much. If you can elaborate on how we can size the drawers to fit the runners 440 draw fits a 450 blum runner at a later date that would be perfect. Also I think there may be a certain clearance  that it must be allowed from carcase back….but not entirely sure……ive checked the blum website which is more confusing than I am!

Cheers Ness……

June 23, 2014
3:03 pm
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Ness

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Hello everyone,

As promised click here for a video showing how to edit drawers so that the back and front are narrower and the bottom goes under them.

I show how to do this editing individual parts and using a manufacturing method.

Hope this video is useful.

June 23, 2014
5:13 am
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Ness

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Hi everyone,

Thanks to Jimboulk for answering Terry’s question so neatly.

In my video on setting up these sliders I used a sub-method which is useful to save all the parameters and be able to apply them to any new project without having to go and set up  each part individually.

Manufacturing Methods are a very powerful way to use Polyboard but can be a bit overwhelming to understand at first.

I’ll try to make a short video to so how to set up the drawer and explain the difference between editing parts and using a manufacturing method. 

From your conversation, I also noticed that I made a mistake in the video.

Not having installed these sliders myself, I didn’t know that the drawer length had to be 10mm less than the runner. So  I use a variable length draw calculated from the depth of the cabinet. Whereas you should use the fixed length parameter and set it at the runner length -10mm.

fixed-length-drawers.jpgImage Enlarger

 

Sorry about that, I’ve still lots to learn myself.

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terry
June 22, 2014
9:43 pm
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terry

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thanks for all the info Jim. Cant quite sort it as I think its because I’m using a method that id put in earlier from Ness video.

Think there maybe some conflict that i’ll need to try and ‘edit’ the method that id constructed earlier.

Cheers

 

Terry

June 22, 2014
9:27 pm
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jimbouk

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Haha, i didnt know it would change that depth! Bit disconcerting as i didnt think it would do that and not sure why.

Some things have clicked for me but still lots i cant seem to get to grips with. 

Trial and error often the best way for me too.

June 22, 2014
9:17 pm
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terry

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Jim I think that has actually worked…..and it has also changed the front back depth at the same time. How clever and you are obviously learning this software fast! Im going to pull the drawer out and see if it agrees with the drawer Ive already made. Im doing things backward here!!

Cheers Jim

 

terry

June 22, 2014
9:15 pm
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jimbouk

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http://screencast.com/t/ebjHeNpE8FS

To get the base to go into the sides, click the base to select, chose the link to left side / right side, then where it says type, choose groove then select your size, I go for 6mm on 12mm this material or 8 on 16mm which are the two main thicknesses we use in drawer construction.

 

cheers

 

Jimbo

June 22, 2014
9:09 pm
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jimbouk

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Also select the drawer side, then click bottom then make the over lap 13mm. This will be spot on so the sides are then deeper than the front and back.

 

Also we always grove the base into the sides by a bit for strength. You are right that when using these runners always make ya box 10mm less than the runner. So 450 runner 440 box.

For the width of the front and back (internal dimension) its 42 mm less than your carcase internal dimension.

Max thickness of sides on these runners is 16mm unless you also rebate the 13mm side section that drops down past the base.

Nice job, they are great runners!

June 22, 2014
8:59 pm
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jimbouk

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terry said
Sorry the pictures got a bit messed up in uploading.

 

Thanks Ness if you can help

 

Terry

Terry,

 

Click the drawer base to select it. Choose drawer back, select over passing. Do the same for the counter front. Voila!

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terry
June 22, 2014
8:28 pm
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terry

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Sorry the pictures got a bit messed up in uploading.

 

Thanks Ness if you can help

 

Terry

June 22, 2014
8:25 pm
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terry

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Hi Ness 

Had some offcuts a couple of spare tandem runners and the need for an extra drawer in the shed so decided to follow the video and make a drawer from scratch using a construction method slightly different to the video. I didn’t really know how to achieve what I wanted by using the software so I ended up just working everything out on a pen/paper so I thought Id show a couple of pictures and see if you can help me out next time I want to make the drawers this way. The video is great BTW.

I cut the front and back of the drawer 25mm shorter (in height pic 1)  than the sides. This was to allow for the 13mm recess for the runners and for the 12mm drawer base to be cut longer in length than usual and screwed through from into the front and back from the underside (pic 2). The benefit of this for me (when doing painted work) is not having to screw throughout the sides in into the bottom and showing the joinery (screws). It also means that no ‘notching out’ is required on either the front or back panel to take either the locating hook (pic 3) at the back of the drawer box or the front fixing bracket at the front.

This drawer was just for light items so on this occasion i just glued and bradded, but in the future I can make a drawer with this exact same technique using pocket holes through the front (hidden by false overlay front) and through the back (hidden behind the back) and through the bottom. again hidden.

Can you please take a bit of time and explain how I can adapt your video to make the drawers in this manner. I.e reducing the height of front back and extending drawer bottom by the thickness of front and back.

Last thing I could be wrong but I’d done a bit of research and when making drawers for tandem and it seems the drawer boxes need to be 10mm less in depth than the runner length this is so the rear ‘hook’ can locate in a whole that you need to boar in the back of the drawer back which secures the runner in place. I made my drawers 10mm less and they worked perfectly. Is there provision for this in the software or video or can you just tell the software what length of drawer box you want inside the carcass?IMG_0146-1.JPGImage Enlarger

IMG_0145-1.JPGImage Enlarger
IMG_0147-2.JPGImage Enlarger
IMG_0148.JPGImage Enlarger

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