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desk designing in project mode
July 3, 2014
7:35 am
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terry

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Very useful video. Thank you Ness

Terry

July 3, 2014
2:57 am
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Ness

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Hello Terry and Jimbouk,

I’ve taken the opportunity to make a video on setting up a modular desk unit in Project Mode.

If possible modular design is the best way to go because the different modules can be stocked in a library and used for other projects.

Especially as the modules remain parametric themselves with a basic library you can design infinitely and eventually gain enormous amounts of time.  

There are 2 problems when designing modular projects:

First is that you can’t add hardware to link one element to another so think of using screws if possible.

Second is that you have to think of how they will assemble and clip/snap onto one another for easy assembly in Project mode.

Polyboard will only snap different elements to the outer extents of a cabinet. It is possible to move parts by typing in coordinates but this is not very intuitive. But knowing that elements snap to the outer limits it’s possible to organise them so that they assemble correctly every time.

In this video I show how to make the worktop clip onto the desk elements with a constant overlap by pushing the worktop through the outer limits of the virtual box that it’s made from.

Click here to view video

Hope this is helpful.

All the best,

Ness

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July 2, 2014
7:04 am
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terry

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Thanks Jim I will take a look into them. And yes please do show me how you do things your way. Im always interested in seeing how others do things……..if I can then improve my techniques from that then that’s a good things.

Cheers

Tel

July 2, 2014
5:28 am
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jimbouk

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Try south london hardwoods.

Or I can show you a few ways that make edging up yourself easier on something small like this so you can save on costs.

I can also show you how we finish bare mdf if you like.

Jim

July 1, 2014
8:50 pm
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terry

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Brilliant hadnt even thought of the rod even easier. Some nice stainless steel will look good. Been meaning to ask about that other cutting service. I can edge band mdf with paint grade edging no problem…..in fact I can do it very quickly now and the results are pretty perfect as good cutrights. The benefit for me is that I dont have to pay £100 pounds on each delivery……so I can source my cutting at wenban smith locally who also have a flat beam saw and cuts are perfect. Also Im not paying excitant prices for both edging and cutting at cutrights. Their edging also comes as mdf not white…….which means it takes 6 coats of acrylic to cover it. With this paint grade edging that i use…….if your careful…you only need a lick over it after installation so a huge time saver.

Problem I have is I had a go at edging with some veneer and its a bit harder so the results may be less than perfect. I might outsource it to a cutting service as wenban smith do not offer an edging service.

Ive been quoted £50 per sheet supply from wenbans for 19mm Vmdf oak crown cut. I’d be interested in knowing Jim about the other place that you recommend?

 

Cheers

terry

July 1, 2014
8:23 pm
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jimbouk

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Yeah that will work Terry,

I have done them that way also if they are not going to put loads of papers or the draw isnt massive as the weight is taken by the metal bar. I think you can do the same with a stainless rod that makes it even easier as you can just drill a hole for it front and back.

If you do slot the top you can buy a 3mm grove slot cutter that makes it easy.

Also i have a good place for you for the veneer boards with edging. Its south london so might be betted for you than twickenham.

July 1, 2014
7:52 pm
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terry

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Thats a very refreshing attitude Jim…….and I totally agree on keeping things small and under control. Sounds a good idea Jim and thanks.

Re the filing drawers etc. Your idea sounds great. Done a bit of research today and found that your method seems to be the preferred way of doing them.

I dont have the skills for grooving much less the machinery…..well I do have a router but Ive only used it for kitchen worktop mitres! 

Another suggestion I had was to make the drawer boxes slightly bigger than the total span of the files including the lugs on the file tops and then notch in a 3mm notch in the front and back panel of the drawer to receive some 3mmx20mm stainless steel bar. This seems like a good option for me (without grooving) and the file holders will then be located ‘inside’ the drawer which will stop them from falling out the front and back! What do you think to this? 

Best

terry

July 1, 2014
7:22 pm
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jimbouk

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terry said
Thanks Jim…….no pressure as I’m sure you overloaded, but do please PM me your contact details. One of the best things about this forum is all the great resources available…….its going to be a great help in the long run. The client is happy to wait till august but as Ive not used veneered MDF before (she insisted on it) all of my stuff is painted, and never done file cabinets I’m trying to get ahead of the game on this one and she has insisted on drawings.  Im currently trying to figure out how to construct and design the file cabinets and trying to get my head around how to hang the files on runners. Its all a learning curve…..quite enjoyable but sometimes stretches the mind a bit too far.

Best

tel

Yeah things are real busy for me but sometimes its more enjoyable to help with something like this than actual work although its the same thing, just doesnt feel the same, work can feel like a hamster wheel sometimes. Thats one of the reasons I like working for myself and on not too big a scale is that I get more involvement and enjoyment.

With the filing cabinets the best way i have found is to make a drawer with no base and the full extension side mounted ball cage runners, they are pretty heavy duty and can take the weight. Then in the top edge on the side of the draw rout a small groove, stick in this groove a metal strip that protrudes up slightly. This is where the file dividers locate onto and allows them to slide.

Steer clear of the kit you can buy, its a black 4 sided drawer you can mount a front on. They are not cheep and a pain in the ar** lining up the fronts and stuff as they move when they get weight in so never look right.

cheers jim

July 1, 2014
7:02 pm
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terry

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Will do

July 1, 2014
7:01 pm
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terry

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Thanks Jim…….no pressure as I’m sure you overloaded, but do please PM me your contact details. One of the best things about this forum is all the great resources available…….its going to be a great help in the long run. The client is happy to wait till august but as Ive not used veneered MDF before (she insisted on it) all of my stuff is painted, and never done file cabinets I’m trying to get ahead of the game on this one and she has insisted on drawings.  Im currently trying to figure out how to construct and design the file cabinets and trying to get my head around how to hang the files on runners. Its all a learning curve…..quite enjoyable but sometimes stretches the mind a bit too far.

Best

tel

July 1, 2014
6:58 pm
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jimbouk

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jimbouk said

terry said
Can you come and help me build this retched thing in a couple of weeks !!!!!!! I didnt even want this job so doubled the price!! now I’ve got to design and build it…..without a domino and limited skills with pocket and dowels haha

Terry, more than happy to help! Will drop you a Pm with my number.

dont think you can PM on here so have added it to my profile, shoot me a txt or call when you get time mate.

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July 1, 2014
6:53 pm
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jimbouk

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terry said
Can you come and help me build this retched thing in a couple of weeks !!!!!!! I didnt even want this job so doubled the price!! now I’ve got to design and build it…..without a domino and limited skills with pocket and dowels haha

Terry, more than happy to help! Will drop you a Pm with my number.

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July 1, 2014
6:47 pm
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jimbouk

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lol same here, took me a while and a few rude words but eventually I realised that most panels can be done the same way, got it finally from ness’s video on the scribes.

terry said
Thanks yes that has worked!

Had to play around with the positioning but yes that seems to have helped. I didnt realise you could then change the with of this single panel lol

July 1, 2014
6:41 pm
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terry

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Can you come and help me build this retched thing in a couple of weeks !!!!!!! I didnt even want this job so doubled the price!! now I’ve got to design and build it…..without a domino and limited skills with pocket and dowels haha

July 1, 2014
6:40 pm
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jimbouk

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When you do the counter top, add it to a single unit then just click and pull the corners one at a time to make it cover all 3 units.

http://screencast.com/t/wVp98Q0ImBw

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July 1, 2014
6:39 pm
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terry

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Thanks yes that has worked!

Had to play around with the positioning but yes that seems to have helped. I didnt realise you could then change the with of this single panel lol

July 1, 2014
6:37 pm
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jimbouk

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And make sure that in the construction of the back panel unit the back is overpassing all round.

As far as these things go im just doing things the way I can at the moment, once I make a bit like this im saving in the library with best discription possible so its less work next time I do a unit, hopefully just change the sizes.

July 1, 2014
6:30 pm
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jimbouk

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terry said
Thanks Jim

Thats a great idea on the side end deco panels. Id previously done them in a much more complicated way so that helps alot.

Im going to try and work out how to then extend the counter so it overpasses these end panels so good tip. Im just concerned that I’m making life hard for myself here and if I could just do it all in a different way………as the back panel will then only be a back panel on the middle carcase…i.e the one that I’ve deleted!  if you understand me.

Cheers

Tel

Make the back panel unit width the total of the whole desk width, that will make the back panel the same size as the whole thing, not just the size of the space for your legs.

eg space for legs is 600, total of whole desk 1800. make the cabinet where you delete all panels except the back 1800 wide. That gives you a back for the whole thing :)

July 1, 2014
6:26 pm
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terry

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Thanks Jim

Thats a great idea on the side end deco panels. Id previously done them in a much more complicated way so that helps alot.

Im going to try and work out how to then extend the counter so it overpasses these end panels so good tip. Im just concerned that I’m making life hard for myself here and if I could just do it all in a different way………as the back panel will then only be a back panel on the middle carcase…i.e the one that I’ve deleted!  if you understand me.

Cheers

Tel

July 1, 2014
5:10 pm
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jimbouk

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Terry,

 

I’m no where near Ness in ability but heres how i did the end panels to the kitchen im doing.

 

Make a new cabinet, where it says panels in the box on the right just put no in all the boxes except the side you want the end panel on.

So left hand end panel =

top-no

bottom-no

back-no

rhs – no

Save that unit as left hand end panel. Add it to your project next to the unit. :)

http://screencast.com/t/zIn0D5wAqy

Same deal for the back panel, just keep the back, put no in the rest.

once you have done that, you can add to the project.

http://screencast.com/t/uKQikhjkE3r

Then add counter. you can alter the size and shape when you add it.

Hope this helps.

 

http://screencast.com/t/brka0KJFz

 

Jim

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