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Torsion style floating shelves
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Ness

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November 28, 2014 - 6:09 pm
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Hi Peter,

Thanks for participating in the forum.

For interest I have attached a Blum hinge doc :

cheers,

Ness

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November 28, 2014 - 12:52 pm
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Hi Mark

Yes blum stnd hinges will work for upto a 22mm thick door.

But Blum also make a Profile hinge for upto 32mm thick doors  that works with the stnd drilling pattern

 

Cheers

Peter

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Ness

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November 28, 2014 - 8:20 am
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Hi Mark,

Nice to see you back and happy to hear the move is over, always a very hectic endeavour.

If you have a spindle moulder or router table set up for grooving, your method is certainly the easiest .

cheers,

Ness

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mark nichols

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November 28, 2014 - 8:07 am
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Hi Guy’s

Im back after  hectic house and workshop move….

For simple ‘stile & rail’ mdf doors we use a 6mm grooving cutter in the spindle moulder. A 6mm grooving cutter in a router table would work exactly the same way.

We set it up to cut dead centre and run the stiles and rails through on the long face. we then run the rails again on the ends.

We then cut loose tenons and the centre panels and glue up.

We do strengthen with dominos, but you should not need to with proper glueing. Also, on the spindle we can cut much deeper grooves and so provide additional strength.

Point to remember, you can get up to 22mm with blum hinges, but Grass allow you get up to 26mm on full overlay doors without binding.

Mark

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November 27, 2014 - 6:41 pm
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Hi Ness

Thanks for all that ive been searching the internet for router help but that trend guide seems to have everything in one place and will be very useful so cheers fo rthat and all the other info.

The doors that I may are for cabinets so they will be 6X6X6 which will give me 18mm doors. The example cab may have been set up as 3x 18 not sure, anyway the principle is the same I guess.

I had a look around some woodwork forum and a successful way of joining the styles and rails seems to be to use ‘loose tenons or ‘spline joinery’ not sure if i’ve got the terminology correct, but it seems to involve using small offcuts of the center panel material and making little biscuits with them. The grooves on the style and rails i would assume would be stopped just short of the edges. This seems to be the way most of the guys on Ukwoodwork forum seem to do them so I’m probably going to have a go at that way.

Ive picked up the router today after not using it for a year or so and I must say once you get used to using it again it dosen’t seem half as daunting as it did. Watched a few youtube videos and was template making and plunging in no time. It’s like any tool I guess you never really forget how to use it but on some tools that you havent used for awhile you need to have a decent refresh to get6 over the cobwebs. I plan on keeping it out of the cupboard in future, buying a couple of good bits and playing around with it in spare time. 

Cheers Ness……ps nice cabinet BTW very tidy. I’d love to see a video as you described if you ever get time.

 

Terry

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Ness

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November 27, 2014 - 3:00 pm
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Hi Terry,

I’ve never made doors this way but can’t see why it would give problems for larger doors.

Your doors end up quite thick at 3×18 =54mm

To make them stronger you could use solid 18mm wood styles and rails.

In making a real frame and panel door the biggest problem is not so much the grooving for the panel, but more assembling the styles and rails. I’ve always used mortise and tenon but you can use dominos, pocket screws or dowels.

For learning the router here are a couple of eBooks that you might find handy:

 

I recently made a medium size door for an electric cupboard and doweled the frame with my quick dowel jig, grooved with a router and cut with a portable circular saw. 

I used a horizontal disk on my router to make the groove and the whole job should have been done in less than and afternoon.

(it took much longer because I actually broke my finger while cutting the 5mm ply panels because of kick back on the circular saw)

I wanted to make a short vid to show how to do this but haven’t had time yet.

I attach the Polyboard file and a couple of picsPICT0001.JPGImage Enlarger

  

of the project for interest.

PICT0002.JPGImage Enlarger

 Good luck for the suite….

all the best,

Ness

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November 27, 2014 - 1:09 pm
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Thanks Ness. I’ll be using this method quite a bit over the next few months. This method of constructing is fine on small doors and I’ve never had warpage but I’ve got some taller ones to do soon so I’m a little more nervous about doing them this way although essentially they are identical (almost) in structure to grooving the panel in. I’m hoping to build a router table in the new year so I can do these doors the proper way, I realise I can groove the edges of the styles and rails without inverting the router but it just makes sense to get set up in a table if I’m going to be doing quite a few of them.

Im trying to get my head around router bits at the moment as Ive little experience of using a router and as well as being an intimidating tool the range of bits is quite intimidating too!

 

Cheers

 

terry

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Ness

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November 27, 2014 - 11:53 am
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Hi Terry,

Sorry to get back so late but have had a hectic week.

The trade show went very well, but had loads of work to catch up with when  got back.

Here’s a quick video to show how to set the 3 layered door up in a library…

Click on this link to view the video Create a Library Element from a 3 Layer Door

All the best,

Ness

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Stefan

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November 17, 2014 - 9:36 am
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Hi Terry,

Ness is at the trade show in Paris for most of this week. He’s hoping to be able to reply to queries on the forum, but there might be a bit of a delay.

Please bear with us if there is, and sorry for the inconvenience.

All the best,

Stefan

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November 16, 2014 - 11:28 am
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Thanks Ness

That looks like it will work fine. Should I add the softwood as a bar material or sheet material. Also what would be the best way to add a plant over bit to the front to hide all the layers. I realise I can just create an edging in say 6mm mdf but that piece would not show up in a cutlist. Is there another way.

Playing around with this made me wonder if I could apply the same method to a shaker frame and panel door that I make without grooving, and I’ve managed to work that out with ‘thickness split’ and edit structure of the outer two skins and removing the panel on outer two skins. My problem is that I want to save this as a sub method so I can then apply it to other cabinets but can’t figure out how to do it.

Ive attached the cab

Best

 

Terry 

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