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stair on a boat
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Ness
Forum Posts: 1939
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March 20, 2020 - 6:06 am
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Hi Per Birger,

Thanks for posting this, it’s a great pleasure to see such fine workmanship, well done!

We have been very privileged to have been able to help you realise this master pièce!

boat.jpgImage Enlarger

Best regards,

Ness

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March 10, 2020 - 9:56 pm
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Hello, its fun to see how we designed, crafted and finally put this stair together in my boat. I am and was very grateful for the professional support I was provided by Ness and Stefan. Since then I have completed the interior. Might be fun to see as the internals of the boat has been designed as a mix of traditional and modern use of wood and craft.

Here is a link to the fb homepage for this boat of mine (and father in law); https://www.facebook.com/teige…..038;type=3

Below a few of the highlights;

Teigevik-Doors.jpgImage Enlarger

Teigevik-Main-Table.jpgImage Enlarger
Teigevik-Wheelhouse.jpgImage Enlarger
Teigevik-Owner-Cabin.jpgImage Enlarger
Teigevik-Captain-Cabin.jpgImage Enlarger

Doors for cabins and bathroom, main table and seating, wheelhouse, owners cabin and captains cabin.

Here are a few pics from the stair process;

Stair-assembly.jpgImage Enlarger

Stair-routing.jpgImage Enlarger
Stair-installed.jpgImage Enlarger

Final assembly, routing in progress and installed.

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Stefan

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July 25, 2014 - 10:51 am
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I really wanted to see the pic of where Per Birger is on his project, so here’s a resized pic.

(Just for reference, max dimensions are 800 x 800 pixels and file size under 100 kb)

Great to see it in situ!

bilde-forum.jpgImage Enlarger

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July 23, 2014 - 7:25 pm
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I got a picture of the stair. Guess I didnt have correct cred to attach…..so maybe some other time….

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July 23, 2014 - 7:15 pm
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I have cut and assembled the stair. Last thing I did before we took off for vacation. I did the top step deeper than the 180mm set out in the plans. I will narrow it until it feels uncmphortable against the distance to the rim of the entrance. Thr risers are planed but not yet cut. I will also shape and sand the stair when i am back home.

Pb

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Ness
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July 17, 2014 - 4:46 am
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Hi Per Birger,

In general the corners of the step housings can be done 3 ways.

Most of the time I rout with a 16mm cutter and leave the corners rounded.

Then I round the front edges of the steps (and lower back edge of the risers) with a 8mm radius round over bit so that the steps fit into the rounded corner. On winders the round over is also machined onto the right angled trim.

If you want squared corners the easiest thing to do is to just square the corners with a chisel. 

Sometimes I have to make a moulded nosing.

This requires cutting a scribed counter profile template/jig that I run a small diameter cutter up against once the main step housing has been routed.

nose-profile-1.jpgImage Enlarger

Good luck with the rest.

All the best,

Ness

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July 16, 2014 - 9:46 pm
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I have completed the router guide, according to the guidelines found here at this site (members area). I have now started the carving. I quickly learned that the gross have to be removed by a 12 or 16 mm head. However, to have sharp corners a smaller router bit has to be applied. Actually I need 2 guides……

I hope to complete the router activity tomorrow. However, I have hoisted onboard a new mast on the ship. Got to take Teigevik home tommorow too. Plenty to do.

Pb

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Ness
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July 16, 2014 - 9:46 am
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Hi Per Birger,

Of course you can use loose tenons but in my opinion tenons glued into the string thickness will not give enough strength and it’s much safer to use screws, the best being to use both screws and dowels or loose tenons (or dominos, or biscuits) to maintain alignment.

I’m glad the lower lh stringer didn’t give you a problem.

All the best,

Ness

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July 16, 2014 - 9:03 am
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Hi Forum,

I have read and understood your response. Helped a lot. 

As for the outter corner. Why doesnt loose tenons come in as an option?

I noticed the slim lower lh stringer. No problem. I have already added wood here sufficient to cover the steps/risers. I will shape the stringers when they are assembled.

Per Birger

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Ness
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July 16, 2014 - 8:07 am
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Hi Per Birger,

You will find many of your questions answered in the the Stair eBook library Stair Design Preliminaires. You can download this from the ebook library here:

Stair eBook Library

1. I have not set up the strings penetrating into the newels. If necessary you can add this material to the part but I would suggest that you use a dowel (biscuit or domino or false tenon) and bolt joint.

Here’s and extract from the Stair Design Preliminaires showing the principle of this joint:

how-to-assemble-strings-and-newels.jpgImage Enlarger

 

You can see how to make a simple jig to make this joint easily in these videos:

bolt and dowel jig videos

 2. You mustn’t try to join the outer stringers at 45° . this not only makes a difficult almost impossible joint to make but is not strong enough. StairDesigner marks the joint as 45° to leave each board overlapping the other its full thickness, so that you can mark out the type of joint you want. In your case it’s possible to use several options. Here’s the suggestion in the ebook:

how-to-asemble-strings.jpgImage Enlarger

It’s possible to plug the screw holes for a more elegant finish.

In your case it might be better not to have a crotch and just have the lower string covering the upper.

screwed-strings.jpgImage Enlarger

 

In your case this  simple screwed joint would be fine .

You can eventually plug the heads but might find it OK to use brass or stainless steel and leave the heads.

If you don’t want the screw heads to show at all then make a rebated and screw joint like this:

rebat-and-screwed-strings.jpgImage Enlarger

This is more work but the screws heads are hidden up against the wall.

What ever you choose, use the inner and outer “mitre” lines to mark out the joint. 

3. The steps are marked out without the 90° angle cut at the string penetration. This is to make marking out the steps  easier and the dimensioned drawings clearer. 

It’s very easy to mark the right angle trim after the step has been cut.

step-penetration-trim.jpgImage Enlarger

To make the steps, mark them out and cut them using the extended edges. 

Draw a parallel line 15mm (depth of string penetration)  to  the end of the step.

To mark the right angle trim,  place a carpenters square on the step end and at the intersection of the step edge and the 15mm parallel line.

Note that the string housings are marked out up to the right angle trim so without the trim you will not be able to insert the step.

4. The grooves (step housings) in the strings are 15mm deep. 33-((520-484)/2). I suggest you rout the housings at 15.5 or 16mm to have a millimeter play.

5. No need to glue the stair.

Steps can be screwed from the back side of the wall sting and some small 4x60mm screws can be driven in at an angle under the the steps on the outer string.

screwing-steps.jpgImage Enlarger

In general you only have to fix the first and last steps of a flight. For long flights intermediate steps should be fixed to stop the strings from bowing out but in your case this is not necessary.

Hope it all goes well. 

Don’t hesitate to ask if you need more information.

Love to see the pics.

All the best,

Ness

PS: I noticed that on the first left string, the step and riser housings are sticking out the lower edge. This is an error of mine as I forgot to adjust the string width with all the different changes we made. You’ll have to add 50mm to the bottom of the string so that the steps don’t stick out.

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