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August 7, 2014
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Hi Jamie
I managed to put the newel on the landing and changed the banisters . Is this what you want ?
Ness is the person to have a final look and send the docs
regards
Michel
October 4, 2012
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Hi Jamie,
No problem to ask for your files, it’s rather us that are sorry that we can’t give all the attention we would like to your project at this moment.
As Stefan has said to you we are actually away from our offices this week for CNC training and set up with our CNC partner in the north of England so it’s been a bit hectic getting time and internet connexions to attend to our email and forum request.
I’ve tweaked a bit your project and attach the StairDesigner and PDF file for your validation.
If it’s all OK I can send you the other files this evening.
All the best,
Ness
hi again,
i am sorry to bit of nag, i was hoping that i could get these drawings sometime today. I realize its evening out your way already..
thanks in advance
jamie
i was also wondering if the newals on the landing could line up with each other
HI,
Yes everything looks good, just a couple of minor changes; the half newal that is against the wall i would like to place on the landing .
the balusters are 12.5mm x 12.5mm or 1/2″ x 1/2″ square metal and need to be centered 1″ from edge of the stair. the treads are 38″ wide and the strings are 36″ total width apart(to fit in a 36″ stairwell opening). the lower stair may need to be a bit narrower so that the tread run is the same for both flights of stairs. With these changes, please go ahead and make up blueprints thanks
August 7, 2014
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Hi Jamie
I looked at it and if it works for you it’s fine. I just did some minor changes in the string width as it was a little oversized. In general you should have a minimum width of 200 to 250 mm. This is measured from the back of the step perpendicular to the stringer lower end. ( smallest width in the stringer).
Sorry I speak in millimeters ;-))
the banisters are a little small so i changed it to a width of 30 mm but that is up to your needs.
I also move the first newel as the second banister on the first step was missing. This is due to the distance calculation.
I am not able to provide documents . Thid has to come from Ness . So if it looks ok for him you will get them.
Have a nice bild 🙂
Michel
hi ness,
i have drawn another stair in version 7 of stair designer(wow, looks good) to illustrate what i am meaning with a cut string. If the joinery looks good on this stair and the cut string is heavy duty enough then i think we will go ahead and get some drawings made up.
Lets not worry about the top of the stair. that will require some custom mods that are not worth me trying to convey in way that you can understand.
thanks for now.
maybe ill send you some pictures of the final project
hi ness,
That would be a great way to go and one that i wish was an option. The unfortunate part of this project is that the contractor did not get me involved soon enough and left me with the minimum code of 36″ wide to work with. I am not able to make the stair any narrower than 36″. I only need a handrail on one side but i do need a balustrade at least up the floor joist on both sides. Did those drawings i sent illustrate my project or were you not able to open them.
The only other thing i was thinking could work is if i made a cut string instead of a housed string board. then i could narrow the distance between strings to fit inside the stairwell but leave my treads to overhang so that my balustrade could terminate under the floor joists.
To do this i would need to know if 2 – 11 1/2″ deep x 1 5/8″ wide cut strings are strong enough to support the load.
October 4, 2012
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Hi Jamie,
I would suggest that you reduce the width of the second flight by 2 inches.
This would make it possible to add 2 newels to the arrival. The lateral off sets of the newels being 15/16 the posts would be up against the wall and the handrails would leave a gap of 1″ between to wall.
The flight remains of reasonable width and slope.
The newels could be fixed to the joist at the arrival.
I attach a possible model with a 3 inch wide landing step added.
Best regards,
Ness
hi ness,
i thought i would take the time to explain why i chose to mount the stringers under the floor joists instead of in between which would be more typical.
Because there is no support under the stair i thought it was necessary to have a housed stringer rather than a notched stringer. what happens then is my handrail would be right against the wall at the top of the stairs.(because we want the balustrade centered in the housed stringer) If i just offset that top portion of handrail, then my balusters wouldn’t be in the center of the stringer anymore. If i keep the balusters in the center of the stringer then there is no way to terminate the balusters because the handrail is offset.
so i decided to move the stringer under the floor joist so i had a good way of terminating the balusters and then i offset the handrail and mount to the wall at the top.
If you have a suggestion on how to better solve the balustrade issue, then please send some advice.thanks.
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