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Design Questions: additional newel posts and straight tread
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March 21, 2017 - 5:37 pm
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Hi Michel

I am unable to open the file. It says it was created by a more recent version.

I have good reasons for doing it the way I want to do it. It bolts onto the stringers which are thicker members and it encloses the bottom of the newel which adds stability.The side of the stair is not visible as it is by the wall on one side and behind the return joist on the other.

In the version I sent you, Staircase-La-Brizaude-21.03.2017AK.stair, I am not sure if the length of the flight is correct or not. It is now 2269 which is the same as it was in my V03. Is step 15 width the same as the width of all the other non-kite steps?

If so, then the only problem remaining would be the strange arrangement around the top newel post.

I really think you need to show me how to remove step 16 from the equation please.

cheers

Andy

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Michel

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March 21, 2017 - 5:31 pm
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Hi Andy

look at the last version I send you please 

regards

Michel

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March 21, 2017 - 5:27 pm
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Hi Michel,

OK I have redone the changes to the stringers to bring everything into line but it has done something strange to step 15 around the newel post. I suspect it is something to do with step 16 the landing step. Perhaps it thinks it has to move the newel post by 30mm as the nosing will hit it….It was Ness who added it. Perhaps you could ask him how to get rid of it completely and then perhaps it will not influence the shape of step 15

Cheers

Andy

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Michel

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March 21, 2017 - 5:22 pm
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Hi Andy 

here it is again. Yes I used your version 3. About you wanting to bolt a plate on the back of the stair. If I was doing this I would let the stringer and the post stick out 30mm so that the plate falls in between. This way you would never notice that plate when you look from the side of the stair.

regards

Michel

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March 21, 2017 - 5:00 pm
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Hi Michel,

I see what you have done. But I went to some trouble to set up the end of step 15 and the end of the Left stringer and the newel post all on the same line with a view to bolting a 30mm plate to them. Now there is an extension to the stringer and the newel post is out again. Did you take my V03 as you starting point?

We can talk about Draftsight which I have once the length of the 2 upper stringers and the width of tread 15 is sorted out

Cheers

Andy

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Michel

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March 21, 2017 - 4:27 pm
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Hi Andy

the cause is that the last step which thickness was set to 0. Also the nosing was set to 0. I put it back on 30mm so all steps are now the same 275,4mm

It seems you do not have any cad program. Via the dxf files you can take any measure or angle you like when you read it in a cad program. You can download the free version of draftsight in the support centre.

Take a look a let me know if any further questions. 

regards

Michel

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March 21, 2017 - 2:58 pm
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Hi Ness,

Thanks for those documents.

There is a problem with step 15. It may be related to step 16 which I do not want but was unable to totally eradicate, even following your tip.

It was not obvious from looking at the piece in stair designer but step 15 has only got a width(going) of 245.4mm as opposed to the ‘normal’ width of 275.4mm. This is obviously to do with my shortening the whole of Flight #2 by 30mm in order to accommodate the 30mm thick endplate that I want to bolt to the end of the stair for fixing to and covering the joist.

I still want to have a tread of 275.4mm wide as the last step before the landing and I assumed that stair designer would prorate the reduction in length across all steps.

I doesn’t look like that happened for some reason. And so now, I’m unable to trust the length of the flight 2 stringers.

It is good to see some measurements. But I must say it would help to see the length of the diagonal sides too. After all, I need to know how long to cut the timber for a stringer, not just how much travel there is horizontally.

I addition, marking out will be hard without knowing the angles or even how far the top edge of the stringer projects beyond the end of the lower edge or vice versa. Any help with these thing?

I can now back calculate the length of the mortices to receive the steps in the stringers, but how do I know how to position them as there are no measurements for them.

How can I tell how long the mortices in the posts to receive the steps are to be, or how high to place them? Do I have to take the step height( I assume top of step, take off the 5mm shoulder and that is the height of the top of the mortice? These measurements would be useful.

Can you explain why the straight stringers are not exactly 300mm wide in the cutting list. Is it because the corners of the 50mm tenons move the total width upwards. It seems to me to be safe to just cut those corners and stick with the 300mm width.

Just to take one example, right stringboard #1, here I am missing angles, lengths of diagonals, start and end points of the full mortice, lengths of the mortices which are not full length.

I know that the mortices are at 90 degrees to the shoulders that butt up to the posts and I know that the tops are 189.3mm(riser height above each other, and I can probably calculate taking into account the nosing, the tread width and the offset to start of tenon on the step how far they should be apart from one another. But this is a lot of calculating. Lots of opportunities for error.

Am I missing something?

Cheers

Andy

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Ness

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March 20, 2017 - 4:37 pm
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Hi Andy,

Michel has asked me to post the files for your stair.

All the best,

Ness

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March 17, 2017 - 6:03 pm
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Hi Michel.

I have changed step 1 in line with your suggestions and added 5mm recesses front and back to cover any messy work when routing. The reason I didn’t do it on stair 5 to start with is that there is not a lot of wood supporting the tread in the first place. I don’t yet have the measurements but it doesn’t look like a lot.

If you made no other changes to my version 2 design, then I would like to go with the version 3 that I am attaching.

Cheers

Andy

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Michel

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March 17, 2017 - 5:03 pm
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Hi Andy,

Looks ok to me . Only the first step you forgot to recess the front in the newel . You can do this by selecting the link to the newel post and enter 20 mm front recess. This to avoid a possible gap there if you work bij hand and a router . You could perhaps do the same on step 5 as there you did not recess anything on the corner newel side. 

Look at this and choose from which one you want the cutting list 

regards

Michel

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