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3:37 pm
August 7, 2014
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Hi Toni,
OK so I made some changes
Riser cut into steps instead of flush on top. Better to fix the riser in the back of the step. I penetrated partially the back of the step. You can choose to prioritize the riser completely in the back of the step.
Corrected the stringer connections
Reduced the penetration to 10mm for steps and risers. This is enough depth
enlarged the landing step to 70mm
If you like that one let me know so that I can send you the needed templates
regards
Michel
7:44 am
March 29, 2017
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I’m using 40mm and 26mm acajou kitchen countertop . I have done only straight stairs earlier, these are the first winding stairs. Just this morning i found printing service close by, where i can actually print 1:1 templates so now no problems with accuracy anymore. So far i had only choice measure and draw to the wood.
7:18 pm
August 7, 2014
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Hi Tony
What material are you going to use for this stair ?
In fact you can do a good precize job with these tools and the 1:1 template to cut the parts
What do you mean by injecting glue in a preassembled stair ? Have you done stairs before ?
regards
Michel
5:01 pm
March 29, 2017
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hi,
I’m doing this with handtools (mainly with festoon OF1010 and ts55) so it needs really high accuracy to make everything so accurate that things just snap in and still have invisible seams. secondly i do this mostly alone so if i can glue the parts together in smaller steps it will be easier. although i have considered that maybe there are ways to inject the glue to ready assembled stairs trough some small holes
3:04 pm
August 7, 2014
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Hi Toni,
Sorry I could not attend to it earlier. I wonder why you need to add the risers after building the stair ? Do you have a particular reason for this? There are solutions but it depends on the situation. Can you explain a little more on this please ?
regards
Michel
1:57 pm
March 29, 2017
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Could you send me drawings please. I can solve remaining of problems while working.
6:21 am
March 29, 2017
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Hi,
I made some adjustments to it and I’m happy of the outlook. I’m mostly worried about assembling them together with ricer boards. Can you recommend a design so that i can assemble the ricers after i have installed the stair on their place.
7:11 pm
August 7, 2014
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Hi Toni,
stair seems OK but some issues needs to be checked
you should add a landing step to connect your stair with the upper floor
you should overpass the stringer approx 20 mm past the first step
Stringer connections are not aligned between stringboard 1 and 2. This can be done by editing the stringer shape. You can find a video of it in the new feature page on the forum
Riser should penetrate in the step-nose. Approx 10mm
Also, you can measure the stair opening and angles. Stairdesigner allows to make angled shaped stairs so that it fits perfectly without having to reduce the width too much and having to cover it afterwards.
Regards
Michel
1:43 pm
March 29, 2017
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Hi, I’m renovating old house and next process is to make new stairs. I have modelled it up with free version of stair designer. first step is actually standing on 18.5cm tall platform thats why the room height looks so low.
top part of the stairs is between 2 wall’s and outer side has wall all the way. it’s an old house and very hard to check that all corners are straight, so i still might need to reduce the stair width 1-2cm . Does the design other vice look ok? I used 6 straight steps to make the work easier
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