Wood Designer forum
Newbie issue defining handrails|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
October 4, 2012
Hi John,
Personally I prefer to use bolted croche joints .
The joint is cut slightly vertical to the the slope of the stringer and the bolts placed in alignement to the slope. When the bolts are tightened the croche is pulled tight. This makes for a very strong precise and esthetique joint.
You can see an example of these in this article:
https://wooddesigner.org/farm-…..-building/
Best regards,
Ness
August 7, 2014
Hi John ,
ok here are your files
Michel
Thanks Michel that worked and was less work than it sounded! Btw, I also had to set the linked steps penetration to 30mm from the 15mm I’d set globally to match the cut string offset.
Would it be possible to get a cutting list based on the updated model please? I’d resigned myself to trimming the risers in the last model when I didn’t hear back re risers. I’ve also had to update some thicknesses based on the oak supplier’s recommendations now that I’ve given them my cutting list.
Thanks,
John
August 7, 2014
Hi John,
I send you the files in another post. Sorry that I missed this one. I saw the you took a width of 140 which is workable. 120 is not enough for a self carrying cut stringer.
Yes, it is possible to extend only the step and not the riser. It is some trick 😉 You have to add a stringboard along the stair side you want this to happen and take a thickness of the offset on the cut stringers. In your case it is 30mm. You have to select each stringboard individually and set the riser penetration to 0 and the material transparency to 100%.
The result is extended steps only.
regards
Michel
Thanks for replying Michel. The staircase is going into a Georgian property. Staircases of similar period appear to have a slightly narrower stringer which reduces the visual ‘weight’. Do you think I could get away with 120mm on the upper flight as the stringer is curved through 180 I reasoned the effective span would be reduced by the curve (with the stepsrisers transferring load into stairwell wall.) The lower flight can have additional support below as it will house a broom cupboard.
Also, do you know if it possible with the StairDesigner software to stop the riser at the stringer rather than extending to the width of the tread (as in attached images)
I suspect my neighbour’s staircase (in the attached images) was built by same carpenters in the 1730s as the one which was removed from my house in the 1960s.
August 7, 2014
Hi John,
Stair looks ok. I would personally take a 150 width on the cut stringers.
regards
Michel
I think I’m happy with this now – the hand rail company can refine the profiles from here. The problems I was having were caused by me mis-using the software and a poorly designed cut stringer meeting the landing.
one question outstanding for someone with more experience with curved cut stringers though… what dimensions are usually used for stringers such as mine – I presume the curve gives strength and that the resulting moment about the base of the stringer is supported via the risers and treads into the outside stringboard and wall?
Could somebody look at the latest file and comment on it before I use this month’s allowance to get the plans created please?
1 Guest(s)