Wood Designer forum
Selecting going of stair|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
August 7, 2014
Hi Sean,
Please always send me your stairfiles if you need me to look at it.
Now for the posts you have the parameter called lateral which allows you to move left and right. The other parameter called longitudinal is set on a specific position ” center of the reference point”. Open that menu and set it to “other”. Now you can fill in the value you want it to shift back or forwrd. Carefull as you are limited to move only 50% of the total width. This is for end newel posts and intermediates posts. The intermediate posts has an extra parameter that allow more longitudinal movement if needed.
regards
Michel
December 4, 2024
I was
sean mcmullan said
Thanks for reply.I have worked out how to move post left and right on the string but cant seem to move back and forward. Is this set ate the setup isaac had set this up originaly. How can i acess video he sent when we were seting up? Will anyone be responding tomorrow on forum?
Also wondering if you had a chance to look at stair 7 i had sent into forum?
December 4, 2024
Thanks for reply.
I have worked out how to move post left and right on the string but cant seem to move back and forward. Is this set ate the setup isaac had set this up originaly. How can i acess video he sent when we were seting up? Will anyone be responding tomorrow on forum?
August 7, 2014
Hi Sean,
Depending on what you want to do, you can use the 2D or 3D screen.
By default all post are positioned on the centre of the reference point. You have to move it manually via the properties screen after selecting the post.
The parameter is currently not automated to set a certain position different from the center point. Also, the post at the start and end of the stair are the same type, called an end newel post.
To make it work, these should first be dissociated from each other. I will send this to the developers and keep you posted on it.
Regards
Michel
December 4, 2024
Michel said
Hi Sean,There might be some confusion in the communication. Currently, we can not round the step nose, which leaves only a square notch in the stringboard for the steps. However, this is being discussed with the developers. We will keep you up to date on this.
What can be done is recess the step notch so that the first part of the step will not penetrate the stringboard but will be positioned (pressed) against it. This allows you to create the rounding of your step without having to do any additional work on the stringboard.
As you can see on the 3D of the step there is a front notch inserted via the program.
Here is the view of the stringboard. The red arrow shows where the step front is and the green arrow where the notch stops in the strignboard. This system just avoid gaps due to wood retracting which will show a gap if the step would completely be notched inside the stringboard.
Next, in the postprocessor, it is possible to extend the stringboard notch to compensate for the tool radius. For example, if you use an 18mm cutter for your steps, it leaves a radius of 9mm on the step notch. By extending the stringboard notch by 10mm, you compensate for the tool radius. This avoids the need to square the steps to fit them inside the stringboard.
Here, you see the DXF output for the stringboard and the step (magenta). I aligned these. The back of the step aligns with the back of the notch. The front of the step overpasses the stringboard notch by 8mm.
The radius of 9 mm left on the step recess by an 18mm cutter is compensated by the extension of the stringboard notch by 10mm.
This is only an example, and these settings might vary depending on the bullnose radius you would like to apply to avoid any gaps.
I hope this is a bit clearer on what we wanted to explain.
Regards
Michel
Hi michale.
I wonder could you help me with a few things.
How do i adjust posts when designing stair is it in 3d adjustment is made or 2d.
Where can i set up top post that it always finishes flush with back of riser?
August 7, 2014
Hi Sean,
There might be some confusion in the communication. Currently, we can not round the step nose, which leaves only a square notch in the stringboard for the steps. However, this is being discussed with the developers. We will keep you up to date on this.
What can be done is recess the step notch so that the first part of the step will not penetrate the stringboard but will be positioned (pressed) against it. This allows you to create the rounding of your step without having to do any additional work on the stringboard.
As you can see on the 3D of the step there is a front notch inserted via the program.
Here is the view of the stringboard. The red arrow shows where the step front is and the green arrow where the notch stops in the strignboard. This system just avoid gaps due to wood retracting which will show a gap if the step would completely be notched inside the stringboard.
Next, in the postprocessor, it is possible to extend the stringboard notch to compensate for the tool radius. For example, if you use an 18mm cutter for your steps, it leaves a radius of 9mm on the step notch. By extending the stringboard notch by 10mm, you compensate for the tool radius. This avoids the need to square the steps to fit them inside the stringboard.
Here, you see the DXF output for the stringboard and the step (magenta). I aligned these. The back of the step aligns with the back of the notch. The front of the step overpasses the stringboard notch by 8mm.
The radius of 9 mm left on the step recess by an 18mm cutter is compensated by the extension of the stringboard notch by 10mm.
This is only an example, and these settings might vary depending on the bullnose radius you would like to apply to avoid any gaps.
I hope this is a bit clearer on what we wanted to explain.
Regards
Michel
December 4, 2024
sean mcmullan said
Alex said
Hi,
For bulnose, unfortunately, this is not possible at the moment,
A request will be sent shortly to the development team to find out what stage has been reached on this point, which has already been requested.
Today, our customer’s made tenon with front recess then make it manually
Cheers, Alex
Hi Alex .
Thanks for reply.
i really think some of your other customers has come up with a solution. This prosess would really not work for me the fact is that the time i would wast cutting notch out and prosess would take to much time and with nosing in some places would show a gap.
Hi Alex.
I really now am starting to think this software isn’t for me i mainly make cheaper stairs for developments ect.this software isnt going to speed up process if i use suggestions yourself and isaac have recommended.
December 4, 2024
Alex said
Hi,For bulnose, unfortunately, this is not possible at the moment,
A request will be sent shortly to the development team to find out what stage has been reached on this point, which has already been requested.
Today, our customer’s made tenon with front recess then make it manually
Cheers, Alex
Hi Alex .
Thanks for reply.
i really think some of your other customers has come up with a solution. This prosess would really not work for me the fact is that the time i would wast cutting notch out and prosess would take to much time and with nosing in some places would show a gap.
January 20, 2017
Hi,
For bulnose, unfortunately, this is not possible at the moment,
A request will be sent shortly to the development team to find out what stage has been reached on this point, which has already been requested.
Today, our customer’s made tenon with front recess then make it manually
Cheers, Alex
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