Mould doesn’t just magically appear from nowhere, it forms from a microscopic opportunist that is present in abundance in the air that we, and our furniture, live in. In normal conditions, the spores that cause mould are inert and float around harmlessly minding their own business.
However if you make the environment your furniture resides in too comfortable for the spores, they will settle in and turn into a fully grown fungal infestation.
Like other organisms, mould needs certain things to survive, two of its requisites are food and a habitat, in this instance, your precious furniture is both. The wood has ample nooks, crannies and pores for the fungus to get a foothold and start to digest your furniture so not only is it a place to live, your wooden furniture is lunch too.
The most important thing for the mould to thrive though, is water. This is made available to the fungi by 3 main routes; humidity, condensation or prolonged contact with liquid water. So if your wooden piece is kept at above 60-70% humidity, against a cold exterior wall or in regular contact with liquid water, you are likely to encounter a mould problem.
Treating the problem
If your wooden furniture was kept in the right conditions for mould and it sadly slipped under your radar, don’t worry all is not lost.
Protect nearby items
As previously stated, spores are already present in the air but we don’t need to give them a helping hand onto other furniture or into your carpet, if possible move the item outside into a well ventilated, workshop or garage.
Air and UV
Mould is not keen on dry air and ultraviolet light. Leaving your piece of furniture in these conditions for a few hours can often kill the active spores and dry them out, making them easier to remove.
Vacuum
Do not start by wiping the mold with a damp cloth; you’ll just smear it deeper into the wood grain. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter and a brush attachment to gently suck up the loose, dried spores. Empty the vacuum bag or canister immediately afterward, preferably outside.
Cleaning solution
Choose a cleaning solution from the following:
- Detergent and water: in mild cases, a simple surfactant may be sufficient
- Distilled white vinegar: in most cases, the acidic nature of the vinegar will kill the mould at the root
- Borax and water: in more severe cases, this mould inhibitor may be required
Mix: if using vinegar, use it straight or mix 50/50 with water. With detergent, use a small amount in a bucket of warm water. In the case of borax, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Scrub: dip a soft-bristled brush (an old toothbrush is perfect) into the solution. Wring it out so it’s damp, not soaking.
Work the grain: gently scrub the affected area in circular motions.
Dry Immediately: use a clean, dry cloth to wipe away moisture. Do not let water sit on the wood, or you’ll end up with water rings or more mould.
Sanding
If all else fails, you’ll need to sand the affected area down to bare wood.
- Use a fine-grit sandpaper
- Wear your mask (sanding mould is high-risk when inhaled)
- Once the mold is gone, you may need to treat the area to blend it in with the rest of the piece
Prevention
Keeping mould out of your furniture in future may be as simple as removing the conditions that allowed the problem in the first place. Moisture, humidity, condensation and/or liquid water are normally fairly easy to spot.
If you don’t have the option of changing the environment that the furniture is kept in, various treatments are available.
Also, different wood finishes don’t just change the look of your furniture; they change the “battlefield” for mould. The way mold interacts with a piece of furniture depends on whether the finish is a physical barrier (like lacquer) or a breathable protector (like wax).
