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Hi Jim
Yes I did think side deco end panels screwed through from the inside with cover caps. to hide the screws but that means taking them up to the top of the desk which may look a bit naff. This method works well on other stuff though but anything with a counter i’m not sure? I reckon I can get by on the joinery on the drawers with a mixture of pocket holes and carcass screws if I’m judicious but need to use this kreg jig a bit more to get comfortable with it.
Im thinking it needs to be either some form of dowel etc or pocket holes through the inside (hidden) with the pocket hole cover caps.
Just out of interest Jim……does the domino need to be backed up by screws etc or can you just cut the mortices and it all fits together?
Cheers Jim
Terry
terry said
Thanks Jim…….some good sound advice there.Im capable of edgebanding…. done plenty on MDF its pretty easy, but I was going to just get the company who cuts it to edge it as they offer that service…. Cutrights in SW London. Whilst they are not particularly cheap I don’t think budget was a concern for this client. She is a professional writer and needs her space to be right. Therefore Im tempted not to get involved in the cutting/edging on this particular job but will heed the advice for the future, re the tracksaw and breakout.
Essentially is is a free-standing unit as it will go on a flat wall and I don’t intend on making it look fitted. There is a cheap looking
MFI type desk there at the moment which it will replace,but will also be added to with file cabinets (drawers) and I don’t think it needs to be removed as this is the clients ‘holiday’ home where she does most of her writing.
I’m looking at the ‘egger’ range of pre finished boards. Seem to be good quality. Just havent made up my mind about how to construct it all and keep it clean looking, without opening up potential confrontation with the client. I know egger do the cover caps
for their boards but a desk top with cover caps in the top would look a bit ikea. If i had a domino (which i dont) it would all be pretty easy I’m sure. Not a fan of dowel jigs (couldn’t get on with the joint genie too slow and tedious)
Anyway food for thought
Terry
How about screwing from the underside only and maybe adding side facing panels to hide construction joins thats what i do if theres something like that i want to be able to remove?
Also you could try c workshop but they are in north london. Zylocleaf also do some nice exotic board finishes. Kronospan natural touch are pretty good as well.
Jim
Thanks Jim…….some good sound advice there.
Im capable of edgebanding…. done plenty on MDF its pretty easy, but I was going to just get the company who cuts it to edge it as they offer that service…. Cutrights in SW London. Whilst they are not particularly cheap I don’t think budget was a concern for this client. She is a professional writer and needs her space to be right. Therefore Im tempted not to get involved in the cutting/edging on this particular job but will heed the advice for the future, re the tracksaw and breakout.
Essentially is is a free-standing unit as it will go on a flat wall and I don’t intend on making it look fitted. There is a cheap looking
MFI type desk there at the moment which it will replace,but will also be added to with file cabinets (drawers) and I don’t think it needs to be removed as this is the clients ‘holiday’ home where she does most of her writing.
I’m looking at the ‘egger’ range of pre finished boards. Seem to be good quality. Just havent made up my mind about how to construct it all and keep it clean looking, without opening up potential confrontation with the client. I know egger do the cover caps
for their boards but a desk top with cover caps in the top would look a bit ikea. If i had a domino (which i dont) it would all be pretty easy I’m sure. Not a fan of dowel jigs (couldn’t get on with the joint genie too slow and tedious)
Anyway food for thought
Terry
That sounds interesting Terry!
A few things re the cutting. I understand about getting stuff cut but here are a few tracksaw tips for future ref.
Make sure the blade has as many teeth as possible.
Make sure you have fuĺl sacrficial piece under the full length of the cut this will stop all backside breakout.
Tape the topside with masking tape on venneer or packing tape on laminate. Stopping topside breakout.
Set up your workbench to allow repeatable square cuts. Let me know if you want some more info on this.
How are you going to lip the edging? Let me know and i can suggest a few things.
Is it freestanding or ajoins a wall at some point?
Does it need to be removed? If not i would avoid the cam dowel as without propper equip they are a pain and dont produce the best joints.
How much leeway is there in the design, you can probably tweek it to make it easier to build?
Im happy to help as much as possible. Let me know…
Jimbo
Hi there
I was thinking that the furniture page on the forum is looking a bit lonely so I’ll have a crack at getting some help.
Most of the cabinet work I’ve done has been MDF painted…..alcove type stuff……pretty simple Screws/buttjointed etc.
Ive been asked to design and build a desk out of a either a veneered 18mm mdf or MFC (beech) and I’ve not got huge experience using these materials. The desk will incorporate a keyboard pullout and printer pullout and 2x file cabinet drawers and a pen drawer as well as space for leg room. The desk is going to be approx 600x1600mm
If anyone can offer any tips etc on knockdown fittings and how easy/difficult they are such as cam and dowels or rafix etc i’d be grateful….Im obviously keen to either hide the joinery of be as discreet as possible but although I’ve used a kreg jig pocket holes etc I’m not sure it will wash here.
If i get the work, after planning the design on polyboard, I’m intending on getting the components cut by a cutting service that I’ve used before as Im not confident of cutting these materials on my track saw without breakout.
Any advice will be great
Terry
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