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curved stair installation
August 14, 2015
12:13 pm
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Ness

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Hi Duayne,

I’ve never tried using ply but I don’t see why not.

Just a bit of extra work veneering the edges, no extra if painted.

All the best,

Ness

August 13, 2015
5:04 pm
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Duayne Naugle

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What are your thoughts in using plywood for skirts and risers ? good qualities  :its very stable, the overall look is more consistent  , cons : edges need to be veneered where visible  and it dents easily !

August 13, 2015
2:27 pm
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Ness

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Hi Duayne,

The inner plinth/step support board is the same thickness as the depth of the step housings.

I use 15mm-20mm, you can go down to 12mm but I would avoid anything less.

The outer board is usually 25mm-30mm.

So the total thickness is 40mm to 50mm.

All the best,

Ness

August 12, 2015
9:50 pm
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Duayne Naugle

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so what is the total  thickness of the Plinth plus  the  stringer ?

August 12, 2015
4:04 pm
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Ness

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Hi Duayne,

To avoid cupping, it’s easy to add a nail or two across the whole width of the plinth. I don’t usually glue, always use dry wood and I’ve never had any cupping. The plinth is usually a thin board who’s thickness is equal to the depth of the step housing ie. 15 to 20mm.

You are right to say that the upper and lower corners of the cut outs are very fragile, but the way the plinth is tapped into place there is no cross grain strain on these corners and I’ve never had them breaking.

All the best,

Ness

August 3, 2015
6:56 pm
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Duayne Naugle

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in the other video that you linked me to : do you glue the plinth to the stringer and nail  , i would assume that there is a possibility of the plinth cupping in the cut out section . 

 Also , as you tap the plinth in from the bottom it appears to me that there is a good possibility of the very top and bottom cutout splitting with the grain  , has this happened to you before ?

August 2, 2015
2:46 pm
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Ness

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Hi Duayne,

Thanks for posting your question.

The steps and risers on the inner string are screwed from the under side by driving in a slinted 4mm screw pin from the under side of the steps. The screw is driven at a slant into through the step and into the string so that the step cannot move out of the stringer.

We only screw a couple of steps per flight.

This is only a safety measure and the way the stair is set up it’s impossible that the steps come out of the housings as the lean of the string will actually push the steps against the walls.

The steps are pulled into the housings using ratchet straps. They are usually a tight fit with a slight bevel so they are even tighter when pulled in.

If it’s possible to use housed stringers on both sides, assemble the whole unit and hoist it into place we often do this. However in renovation work we often have to install in tight stair wells where the only solution is to build the stair into the well. In this case the 2 part stringer works really well.

In fact over the years I have found that it makes installation so much easier that I often opt for it even when it might be possible to do other wise.

You can see another stair built this way on our blog here:

https://wooddesigner.org/stairc…..vironment/

all the best,

Ness

 

The pin is 

August 2, 2015
3:14 am
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Duayne Naugle

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 i was watching your short video on a curved stair installation and i have a few questions :

the treads are placed and screwed on the outside skirting but how do you secure the treads to the inside curve , , i know they are housed but surely you must fasten them somehow !

When i do a housed tread and skirt stairway  my treads fit the housing really tight and they have to be wiggled in to place or pulled tight with some clamps , what is your method of installing them ?

 Usually , if my stairway is to be housed , i do both sides that way , build it in my shop and install the whole piece as a unit , my next job involves a lack of room to work and even less to get a whole stairway up to the third floor , i would like to use your method for for building and assembling the stairway . 

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