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dan michaels stair
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michel melon
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October 10, 2019 - 3:59 am
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Hi Daniel,

Here is the video

https://screencast-o-matic.com…..cq66n9uZdQ

Also, that part of the right cutstring nr 1 can be removed. It is not necessary.

right-cutstring-1.jpgImage Enlarger

regards

Michel

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Daniel Michaels

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October 9, 2019 - 9:41 am
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and the right handrail, isn’t it going to be too shaky going all the way to the wall with no intermediate newel post? I would like to put one there. 

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Daniel Michaels

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October 9, 2019 - 9:40 am
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Thank you, I’ll print these and take a look in more detail and let you know if any questions, which I’m sure I may have.

One thing, I still need to get a better idea what everything looks like from different angles and especially how it all fits together from below – I can imagine it but a view would be better. I can’t open the 3-d file, could you make a little video like you did before so I can see the finished stair from various angles?

regards

Dan 

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michel melon
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October 9, 2019 - 5:50 am
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Hi Dan,

Here are your stairplan files. If any question you can always send me a message. Have a nice build and send some pictures of it. If possible some showing the process of the build laugh

Regards

Michel

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michel melon
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October 8, 2019 - 5:46 pm
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Hi Dan,

It seems like a nice place and indeed these are all Belgian beers and we have many, many more of them.

It was indeed the width I was talking about. You can always add them later on but the way I added them they penetrate the step from below to get a strong connection. If you like I remove will the step penetration for these risers and you can add some later on. I will keep them in the plan as removing them affects the cut stringer shape.

Just let me know

regards

Michel

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Daniel Michaels

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October 8, 2019 - 4:56 pm
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Yes, actually Belgian beers have a big mystique here, at least in Northeast U.S…. we have a good restaurant here in the Berkshires that specializes in Trappist beers even though I live in a rural area. I like Chimey and Orval. 

There used to be a bar in New York city called Burp Castle… they only served Belgian monastery beers and the waiters were all dressed as monks and there was a no-talking code…. every fifteen minutes the waiters and bartenders would ring a bell and say “Shhhhhhh….”   Funny. 

So, I’m thinking about the gap between steps, whichI guess can only be 4 inches. Although I’m hoping  maybe he won’t enforce that one because I have seen many stairs with open risers in many places.  But if we do comply,  the space between top of one tread and bottom of the next tread is 5 1/2 inches, right??  So to make it a four inch gap we would have to put a piece 1 1/2 wide, am I interpreting that correctly? 

Thinking about it more, I guess you mean the thickness of the wood, not the width. I don’t think that matters much, 1/2 inch seems fine. 

I don’t think you necessarily need to put that in the plans, do you, since I could just add those pieces later? Of am I missing something? 

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michel melon
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October 8, 2019 - 4:27 pm
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Hi Dan,

Ooh, you know the Belgian beers. laugh 

I need 1 more info from you. I used 1/2 ” riser thickness to narrow down the gap between the steps. Are you using another size?

regards

Michel

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Daniel Michaels

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October 8, 2019 - 11:15 am
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That looks great, Michel, good work, I would like to buy you an extra large order of frites with mayo and a Duvel. 

The text says “at the 12 inch walk line” and the walk line MUST be assumed to be the line you walk, if they say 12 inches it must be from the inside of the rail, not from a part of the stair you can’t get to. 

I think this is the final. Actually I already purchased the wood, red oak, it will be beautiful. It’s not easy to get 1 3/4 x 11 1/4 pieces of oak but I found them. 

So if you can prepare all the final documents, I guess we are good.

Thanks

Dan 

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michel melon
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October 8, 2019 - 4:21 am
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Hi Daniel,

This is the best I could get it within the given dimensions. The tread line is running on the 15-inch line and reaches 9 inches as requested.

It depends if they take the 12-inch line from the very outer edge of the stair or from the inside of the handrail. If it is from the handrail which makes more sense as a user is restricted between the handrails then we reached the 12-line request. Can you have a check if you can have this passed for approval? Otherwise, the only remaining solution is to remove the landing step and use the floor joist as the final step. This will give us a 9-inch tread-line on the 12-inch point from the outer edge of the steps.

The first option is aesthetically the best solution.

Regards

Michel

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Daniel Michaels

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October 6, 2019 - 3:25 pm
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Hello Michel

Responding to the message I saw on email (although I do not see it here for some reason):

I really can’t add 5 inches there, the steps would protrude too far into a traffic area and also I can’t start the first step outside the opening because the ceiling is too low. 

I notice there is a 6 inch projection from the top floor, is it possible to work with that? Or do it any other way?

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Daniel Michaels

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October 5, 2019 - 8:58 pm
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looks great, okay I agree about the support, if anything seems shaky I can always add something under a stringer to the floor later. 

My biggest concern is the part about no winder depth, at 12″ from the left, being more than 3/8 different depth from any other one. And the depth of each at least nine inches at that point. 

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michel melon
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October 5, 2019 - 8:50 pm
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Hi Daniel

if you fix the extended cutstring into the wall firmly there is no need to extend the right newel. I added support under the left cut string as there is the most pressure. Just extending the newel post would put pressure on the steps and not a sufficient support for the cut string. 

I am confident the steps are to be approved. You can have it checked.

Here is version 6 with the 4″ gap between banisters

3d-v6.jpgImage Enlarger

regards

Michel 

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Daniel Michaels

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October 5, 2019 - 8:28 pm
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Yes, excellent! But since the requirement is only a max. of 4″ spacing between the bannisters, I think we could put 2 per stair instead of 3. 

Now the only remaining thing is making sure the winders comply (as close as possible, maybe does not have to be exact) with the requirements on that sheet.  and, back to a previous question, don’t you think the stair needs some more support, like a newel post going to the floor on the left at the “turn” and on the right where the handrail bends??

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michel melon
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October 5, 2019 - 8:13 pm
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Hi Daniel ,

Here is an example 

3d-v5.jpgImage Enlarger

regards

Michel

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Daniel Michaels

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October 5, 2019 - 4:39 pm
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guess I should say bannister instead of newel

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Daniel Michaels

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October 5, 2019 - 4:36 pm
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oops, I took a screen shot of an example of a post. Here is what the newel may be, either about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2Screen-Shot-2019-10-05-at-11.34.42-AM.pngImage Enlarger

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michel melon
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October 5, 2019 - 3:39 pm
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Hi Daniel 

first, you mentioned banisters of 1 1/2 inch. What you show me know are newels of 3 1/4 inch?

The main newels used in the stair are 3 1/2 inch. Can you make a little more clear on what it should be like?

Regards

Michel 

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Daniel Michaels

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October 5, 2019 - 3:33 pm
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Thank you. Basically a square pretty much like this. Screen-Shot-2019-10-05-at-10.31.51-AM.pngImage Enlarger

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michel melon
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October 5, 2019 - 3:27 pm
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Hi Daniel,

I will have a look later today. Send me an example of the railing you want

For the 4 inch sphere, you can add small risers to the steps to close down the gap to the compliant height.

small-risers.jpgImage Enlarger

regards

Michel 

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Daniel Michaels

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October 5, 2019 - 3:02 pm
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here it is. 

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