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dan michaels stair|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
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August 7, 2014
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Hi Dan,
Also, you can retract the nose of only the straight steps and keep the winding steps as is (2″) as you have to assemble and glue them anyway. Then there is no change at all because only winding steps are penetrating the newels.
regards
Michel
August 7, 2014
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Hi Dan,
If changed with stairdesigner it will affect the stringer as the nosing is kept at the very same spot so it brings forward the risers and also the stringers.
You can keep it the same and just have less overhang by retracting the step front. In that case, the stringers remain the same but you have to be careful on the step templates and newels. the reference for the steps becomes the back of the steps because the front is retracting. Next is the penetration in the newels. The penetration of the front is also retracting. If you can manage it you can work this way otherwise I send you updated documents.
Regards
Michel
Thanks Michel. If I’m not mistaken, this should not change the stringers or the winder treads, only will reduce the tread overhang by 1/4 inch on the straight treads, correct? Which is what it was initially anyway.
If this is true, no need to change any documents.
dan
August 7, 2014
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Hi Daniel
Probably by changing the tread line. If I reduce the step nosing from 2″ to 1″ 3/4 then the straight steps will reflect 11″1/4.
Let me know if this is ok for you and I will provide you the documents.
Regards
Michel
Hello Michel, how are you? A few things came up so I haven’t started building yet, but now I am gluing up and starting to cut my pieces.
I will probably have more questions later, but for now, I noticed that the “standard” treads changed from 11 1/4 to 11 1/2 inches – is that necessary? I really need to keep them 11 1/4 because I have purchased wood that is exactly that size, it does not come wider.
Thank you, best regards
Dan
August 7, 2014
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Hi Daniel,
Here is the video
https://screencast-o-matic.com…..cq66n9uZdQ
Also, that part of the right cutstring nr 1 can be removed. It is not necessary.
regards
Michel
and the right handrail, isn’t it going to be too shaky going all the way to the wall with no intermediate newel post? I would like to put one there.
Thank you, I’ll print these and take a look in more detail and let you know if any questions, which I’m sure I may have.
One thing, I still need to get a better idea what everything looks like from different angles and especially how it all fits together from below – I can imagine it but a view would be better. I can’t open the 3-d file, could you make a little video like you did before so I can see the finished stair from various angles?
regards
Dan
August 7, 2014
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Hi Dan,
Here are your stairplan files. If any question you can always send me a message. Have a nice build and send some pictures of it. If possible some showing the process of the build 
Regards
Michel
August 7, 2014
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Hi Dan,
It seems like a nice place and indeed these are all Belgian beers and we have many, many more of them.
It was indeed the width I was talking about. You can always add them later on but the way I added them they penetrate the step from below to get a strong connection. If you like I remove will the step penetration for these risers and you can add some later on. I will keep them in the plan as removing them affects the cut stringer shape.
Just let me know
regards
Michel
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