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August 7, 2014
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Hi Ryan ,
Starting to play around with version 7 :-)). That's good .
It looks ok but I changed the newel position as there was a small notch in the second step . Now it is gone . Also the rounding of the first step was a little off and I corrected it. The shape bend looks ok now.
which material are you going to use as you have a bend cutstring now to tackle
If this is your final version then Ness will look at it once more and if ok you will get all needed documents to start your build. Don't forget to send pictures back when done and if any help needed during the build you know where to find us 😉
regards
Michel
January 10, 2017
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Sorry,
Another quick change. The software is actually not bad to use, however it will take a bit of getting used too. Attached is Ness's latest version with a change to the lower flight, getting rid of the hand rail and opening the steps up a little
.
What are you thoughts here?
January 10, 2017
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Hey Guys,
Thanks for your advice.
Michel, I think you have the dimensions as close as they are going to work. These steel beams are a pain in the butt. The only other compliance issue I can see and i'm not sure where the measurement is taken from but the handrails have to be a min 865 above the nosing. I think the dimensions I saw in the properties had this at 850.
Ness, Your video instructions are very helpful with some great ideas. I am just a beginner so please try and make things as easy as possible.
Other than that I think it looks great. Thanks again guys.
What is the next step from here?
October 4, 2012
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Hi Ryan and Michel,
This is a nice project and Michel has really done a great job.
I would like to make a couple of minor suggestions.
For the stringer/handrail to post joints, if I were doing this by hand, I find it easier to cut the joints with a circular saw, and would use a flush but joint with dowel and bolt assembly.
Here's a video on how I do this:
https://wooddesigner.org/membe.....jig-build/
For the cut string on the wall side, I would make this curved so that the straight flight stringer flows into the landing step stringer.
I've also noticed that the steps are housed only 10mm into the strings, I personally would consider 15mm a minimum.
How are you thinking of assembling the baluster to the strings and handrails?
Balusters penetrate 13mm into the handrails and strings with a double chamfer.
In your case, for simplicity in a manual build, I would run a groove on the strings and handrails, place the balusters in the groove and plug the spaces with intermediary battens. This would make the actual depth setting fine but I would prefer a vertical penetration without chamfer and cut the angle on the intermediary battens.
On the other hand if they are tenoned you might consider increasing this to 20 or 30mm, just a thought, no big deal.
Hope this is helpful,
All the best,
Ness
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Ryan Gardner
August 7, 2014
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Hi Ryan ,
Yes the rule was on 220 in my program. I removed 1 step so you can keep the stair measures. I also set the landing height to 520 instead of 500. The only rule that is violated now is the step height by 3mm. This is not an issue . Rules are there to guide you to get the most comfort out of the stair. In some cases you cannot comply on all of them. If you realy want to have the step height on the second flight below 190 you need to add a step and add length on the second flight to reach again the rules of 240mm step width.
regards
Michel
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Ryan GardnerJanuary 10, 2017
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Hi Michael,
That is looking great. I need to check some of the dimensions. With the landing step it appears that the top flight now does not comply with the Stair rule as the treads are under the minimum 240mm width. I propbably need to look at how I can get some extra length out of the opening....
Let me come back to you in a couple of days.
Thanks for the help
,
August 7, 2014
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Hi Ryan
Here is your stair done in stairdesigner 7. It is very easy to use. Let me know what you think.
I removed the top newel as it is not needed . A landing step on top is the last step of the stair that equals the floor . By having one and a riser you are hidding the floor joist so that the steel beam will not be visible . You can manualy add length to your stringer if you want to make it fit in the side the steel beam.
I used the same step dimenions, nosing,banisters, handrail and stringers as you put in the original file.
Stringers have tenons so that you have a strong and precize connection with the newels. The intermediate post does not need to be notched in as the post is going from top to floor so there is no weakening of the stringer involved. I would not make any tenons and mortise on that specific one due to the build. It would not be very easy to move the stair around with such a post connected and doing it later on would be very difficult due to the tenons. You would not be able to fit it in after build. So there I just made it butted agains the stringers. You will be able to fit it in after the stair is on the spot but be carefull to have a connection between the open stringers while you move around with the stair. Make sure you use long strong screws to connect the fitted intermediate post with the stringers.
regards
Michel
January 10, 2017
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Hey Michel & Stephan,
Please see additional details attached. I have a photo of the area where the staircase is going and a scan of the detailed dimensions. Perhaps a little difficult to decipher but essentially the details are:
- Floor opening is 900x3100mm clear
- There is a 180 UB 16.1 steel beam at the top which I was planning to nest the stringers into
- Floor to floor height is 2840mm
- There is another steel beam which is limiting how far the stairs can extend. This has a clearance of 2520 and I need a min 2m clearance from nosings for building code compliance. I have therefore put a landing in at 500mm height directly below this Beam.
Hope fully this makes it a little clearer. Happy to do a Lync call at some point if that would be easier to talk it through.
Payment also looks like it has now been accepted. Not sure what happened here.
November 8, 2013
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Hi Ryan, with the optimized service we run your cut list through OptiCut (or possibly OptiNest) to output an optimised cut list, so you or your panel supplier/CNC operator knows the best way to cut your steps and risers for minimum material waste. Standard should be fine if this isn't vital for you.
For the payment, I've checked our system and cannot see any failed payments from you. Is the address you used the billing address for your card. Do you by any chance have a credit card instead of a debit card you could use, or vice versa. Please let me know if you're still having problems with this via our contact form and we'll try to get it sorted out for you. All the best, Stefan
August 7, 2014
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Hi Ryan
sketch me a quick plan with sizes so that I can check . I saw also you used the left side as reference for the measurement . Most of the time it is wall reference side that must be taken . With your stair it is the right side that is wall side so maybe there you have an error.
about the payment of your stairfile service Nees or Stefan will reply
regards
Michel
January 10, 2017
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Thanks for the quick reply. Sorry for the lack of detail I have not done stairs before. Quick replies:
- Landing step. Not sure what you mean. The top of the stair will fit into the side of a steel beam and will step onto the floor.
- Newel posts. The central newel post is actually there to add support a beam over the top of the stair. The engineer under speced it and this is the easiest way for me to rectify it. Not the nicest look. It can however be notched around the stringer to maintain the strength. The plan is for the balustrade to taper in under the floor level. Upper newel probably is not needed .
- Right Balustrade. This is not required as there is a wall on this side of the stair. Could not work out how to get rid of the handrail in the program.
- Initially downloaded version 7 however all of the tutorials I saw were for version 6 and was struggling to follow.
Additional information:
- I am limited with head room which is way the stairs are quite steep. The underside will be enclosed with storage. Materials will be pine and chipboard. Railings, stringers and balustrades will be painted and the treads will be carpeted. Fairly boring, but hopefully simple to make and cost effective.
Do you need any further information?
August 7, 2014
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Hi Ryan
I checked the file and some things needs attention. I need more information on the place where the stair will be fitted
I did not see any landingstep
Do you realy need that intermediate post as it is not needed to strength the handrail as it is not that long . Also a stringer in 1 piece in that position is much more needed.
dou you need the newels to touch the floor ? Upper newel mostly not as the stair wil fit on the floor joist.
Right handrail on the second flight ? Do you need it there ?
some parameters needs to be checked also but lets work on this first.
Also have you tried stairdesigner 7 ? You can download it and give it a try 😉
regards
Michel
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StefanJanuary 10, 2017
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Hi,
This is my first time trying to use the software and get a design. I have just tried to pay for a stair design but there was some sort of issue and it didn't work. Is there another way to pay?
Also what is the different between standard and Optimized? I am just looking for a standard design that is easy to construct myself.
I have attached what I have done so far. If you could please provide some advise that would be appreciated.
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