I have attached a couple of photos for you to see a) the ship and b) theres one pic where the entrance to the below deck compartments is visible. Actually one can spot the temporary ladder (red) is right where the stair is meant to be set up (the drawings are all seen from below).

I don’t have any photos of the interior – yet.

I and my father in law have, with other helpers, rebuilt the ship that were originally built at our beach at Teiga. Ships maiden name is M/S Teigevik.

I have tried to sketch the stair I have in mind. The main difference between what I am looking for and a regular stair is probably the space available.

Thats why I have elected the L shape – just to have available more steps. The height below is less than 200cm. The measurements, also indicated on the drawing is; Total height 159cm, width of steps 52cm and footprint of long part of the L is 102cm and the short is 86cm. 

 

I have attached something I have created in SketchUp. At least it shows the basic shape. However, this is a wooden ship and the shapes should be anything but straight angels. That means I have to do some freehand work to shape up the stairs as I am not able to do that with my rather limited knowledge of CAD. 

 

Regards 

Per Birger Møvik

 

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For your design I have found a small problem concerning the stair rising up from the lower floor.
It seems that according to the dimensions sent previously, the left hand start of the stair design you sent me is not clear of the lower stair well.
I have made a SketchUp model to illustrate:

One solution to this could be to to extend the 2nd flight like this:

This will make a stair that’s easier to use but I’m not sure from your information if this is possible.
Another solutions would be to put the first step at an angle like this:

 

 

This gives a stair that takes less room but is steeper .

On the question of stringer I would suggest that if possible you recess the steps into a solid string.
This is in fact not only stronger and giving a more aesthetic result, but is also easier to make if you have a router.
To rout the housings use the router jig that can make using the PDF document downloadable from the members area.
If you don’t own a router I would suggest you rent one just for the day you need it.
Cutting false stringers will take just as much time and the finished stair will always be less professional.

Whatever route you choose,  you’ll  have to house the steps into the post.

If you want to start building this week end please get back to me quickly so that I can set up your working documents.

All the best,
Ness