Hi Luke,

Here in Grenoble I have a great printer who will print and deliver quick and cheap.

they are : TechiPlan email: repro@techniplan-sa.fr 170, Cours BERRIAT – 38000 GRENOBLE 04 76 96 96 33.

I don’t know if they would send you the plans.

Where are you situated?

StairDesigner doesn’t draw the tenons but allows for the extra length by saying they are housed into the newels.

This gives the joint line and tenon penetrations. 

Good luck for the build.

All the best,

Ness

PS: I’ve checked the PDF drawing sizes and they seem OK. If you print 1:1 you should have not problem.

Hi Luke,

Sorry I forgot that you had paid for a StairFile Pro.

I didn’t include the full size PDF printouts that are in the pro service.

You can print out these templates and manually update the necessary modifications without using Draftsight. 

The Pro service doesn’t usually include editing the DXF files. It does include in depth advice on your project and tweaking of your StairDesigner files to get the best project possible. 

If you get the pdf files printed you just have to mark the extra step lengths and joint lines directly on the prints.

All the best,

Ness

Hi Luke,

To read and print the files use Draftsight it’s a free CAD program that works very well.

The down load link is in the members area here:

https://wooddesigner.org/membe…..raftsight/

If you don’t know the basics of AutoCad you might have to look at some YouTube videos to get the hang of using it.

I can send you the full size parts in PDF but as this is usually only part of the StairFile PRo service as it takes a bit of time to setup.

Tell if you have problems printing from Draftsight and I’ll see what I can do.

All the best,

Ness

Hi Luke,

Here are your files.

Note that, as well as adding the extra length to the left of the last flights steps, you will have to adjust the following details :

– draw the joint assembly between the cut strings and newel posts. You might also need to adjust a bit the risers.
For example, I’ve seen that riser 11 is drawn too long moving through the inner post . 

– redraw the under edge of the cut strings. StairDesigner draws this edge twisted following the step directions, this is not at all necessary nor practical, I suggest you redraw the edge to make it a smooth curve.

–  Add the extra length on the left side of the last flight’s steps.

I hope you have fun building this stair.

Keep us updated.

All the best,

Ness

Hi Luke,

Unfortunately you can’t eliminate the handrails from the 1st and 2nd flights. they are applied globally.

We are working on the next version StairDesigner 7 that will make this possible as well as a better management of assembly details between cut strings and post, etc. but for the time being you just have to ignore the extra handrails in the cutting lists and drawings.

With steps resting on cut strings there’ll be no problem getting a nice fit to the wall and having no plinth will not be a problem for you.

 If the walls are plastered, the issue with no plinths is for the house keeper. Plaster walls will get damaged quickly at the base, so best to warn the customer that this will happen.

I’ve just changed slightly the position of the posts :

– on the last flight left side to make them symmetrical to the others.

– move forwards the first post to line up with the landing post.

I’ve also set the string under the handrail so that it’s in the centre of the posts

I can’t do this with the last flight left string as the string offset is 0.

As you can’t give different cut string offsets to each flight (another problem we are hoping to fix in v7)  the best would be use the plans as they come from StairDesigner and add 20mm left overlap on the 3rd flight steps. Depending on how you want to make the stairs, (hand built or CNC) you can either edit the dxf files, mark them out by hand on the pdf full size templates or just add when marking out the steps. 

Tell me if this last project is OK for you and I’ll send you the plans.

All the best,

Ness