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Stairdesigner files and info
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Ness
Forum Posts: 1939
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October 4, 2012
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September 22, 2015 - 5:23 pm
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 Hi Luke,

Thanks for this very thorough presentation of your project.

You stair is well thought out and set up. I attach your stair that I have tweaked a couple of details:

– set the first and last posts so that the steps are not flush with the newel faces

– made the last step wider so as to have 10mm spacing between the last riser and joist face. this makes it easier if the joist face is not perfectly plumb.

– grooved the risers 10mm into the steps.

The important point for the second stair is that it’s starting newel post lines up with the last newel of the first stair. This enables you to joint both newels with a handrail.

There are a few points that you might think about:

With a cut string on the left you would usually need a plinth against the wall. A plinth is difficult to cut around the steps.
You could put a housed stringer on the left, this would make the plinth unnecessary.

I you need a handrail on the outside of last flight  you’ll need to fix it. It might be a good idea to add a couple of posts at each end.

If you set a housed string on the left of the first 2 flights the corner post between the second and third flights make a good transition between the 2 types of stringer. 

Note that StairDesigner will not be able to give the correct overlap to the steps on the left side of only the last flight, as this parameter will affect all the stair. The trick is to extend the steps manually either editing the DXf files or just when marking up the boards.

If you want I can add these to your drawing.

Otherwise good job!

All the best,

Ness

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September 22, 2015 - 2:05 pm
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Hi Ness and Stefan,

Firstly thanks for your help with registration, and both your quick replies to e-mails. Much appreciated.

Please find attached as requested, the stairdesigner files and additional info for my project:

Photos:

I didn’t take any photos of the stairwell I’m afraid, but the house has been completely renovated by a more than competent builder, with plumb new plasterboard walls and an almost perfectly square trémie. I measured a 2mm discrepency on the first floor opening, and 5mm on the second.

Project Description:

The project is two flights of stairs (in oak), one directly above the other, both identical apart from an 80mm difference in floor height. Winding steps, cut strings left and right, metal balusters with oak handrails.

Timber sections desired (mm):

Newel posts  – 90 x 90

Cut strings    – 50 x 300 (I think. Proportionally looks nice on stairdesigner’s 3D image, only have 200mm in parametres though!??)

Handrails      – 50 x 60

Treads        – 30 ep

Risers         – 20 ep

Assemblages:

Mortice and tenons for strings to newels

Mortice and tenons for handrails to newels

Top newel housed around floor joists (Not sure I’ve got this positioned correctly). Joist depths: 1st flr = 300. 2nd flr = 350

Mortice holes in steps for metal balusters 10 x 10.

 

Workshop Equipement:

My workshop is fairly small scale and I would describe my machines as top end amateur/low end professional.

 –  3 phase Planer thicknesser with 399mm wide cutter block (Kity 639)

 –  1 phase Radiale arm saw (Dewalt DW 721)

 –  3 phase Table saw (old but really good)

 –  3 phase Spindle moulder with cutter block for 40 or 50mm fers (old but really good)

 –  1 phase dust extraction, single bag on wheels.

 –  1 phase bandsaw (Kity 613)

 –  3 phase Morticing machine (Sedgewick 571)

 –  Petrol powered sawmill (Norwood LM200)

Various hand held power tools, hand tools, and workshop equipement.Scan-cage-descalier-ornellas.jpgImage Enlarger

The left and back sides of the openings are plasterboarded stud walls (63 x 75 chevrons).  The Front and righthand sides are open and will require handrails to return to the walls. Also the lefthand side of the third flight of each staircase will need a handrail and balusters. Whilst it is not essential that these appear on the plans and cuttiing lists, it would be nice, if possible.

I am not sure where to start the second stair, I have left it the same as the first for now. My query is whether to bring it out on to the landing, taking up room but giving a good solid starting point, or to hang the newel around the joist, and keep the first step off the landing, which is a thoroughfare.

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