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Customizing face frames and saving to methods |Page 4|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
November 8, 2013
Hi Nigel, I wanted to let you know Ness is away until the end of the week. He’ll reply as soon as possible, sorry for the delay.
October 4, 2012
Hi Nigel,
Because the double back is sealing off the inner volume if you need the drawers boxes, you’ll need to change the way you build the cabinet.
The best way to do this is to put nil panels around the carcass and then fill the space between the carcass and the nil panels with a double back. This leaves a free volume in the middle where you can insert drawers.
I attach an example cab.
Note that the double backs are priority to the nil divisions and overlapping 8mm to give the correct lengths in the cutting lists
You’ll have to tweak the sizes.
You can use this method to build all the frames but the disadvantage will be when you put shelves they will be short as up against the nil panels. So it could be better to build models with doors the other way.
Note that I’ve just used a panel for the frames so they’ll come into the cutting lists as panel material. If you want them as bars you’ll have to apply the appropriate structures.
Best regards,
Ness
Morning Ness
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction with the frames. I’m getting to grips with it now. I’ve come over a little issue that I’m hopping you can work your magic and show me how to do it!
If I use the method that you showed me to make the frames, how do I put in a draw or draw stack? I have used the surface split to give me 3 individual fronts then added a assembly to them, this worked but I have no draw boxes?
Thanks
Nige
October 4, 2012
Hi Nigel,
I’m happy to hear that this is helpful.
Just tell me when you’d like a TeamViewer session to work through the details.
Cheers,
Ness
October 4, 2012
Hi Nigel,
Sorry to get back so late but I’ve been a bit busy these last days.
It seems from the examples that you have posted that you really want just a frame on the front of each box.
This is in fact much easier than setting up a completely framed construction.
You can do this simply by adding a panel to the front of the box and creating a framed structure.
To add the door just select the panel of the first frame and make that a framed construction too.
This actually also makes it easy to make the rails penetrate into the styles by 8mm to get the right cutting lengths.
I’ve set up a few models that you can look at.
the ff models are the completely framed structures (these are quite complexe) and the ffb are the face frame with beading models where the rails penetrate into the style by 8mm.
I’ve used a code for the different types l and r for left and right sides -o for flush Outer -i for flush Inner and -c for Centre.
I haven’t had time to set up all the models you need but the ffb models are quite easy to adjust and you can make them up as you go.
I’ve set these models up for in-built doors but it’s also possible to use applied doors by applying a door and then applying a double back with a framed structure behind it:
The model name is ffb-app.
If necessary we can do a quick TeamViewer session for me to show you how to use and tweak them.
Hope this is helpful,
All the best,
Ness
Ness said
Hi Nigel,Can you give me some more detail of how you want to set up your face frames?
I’ll need the section of the styles and rails and how the frames sit on the boxes, ie flush to inside, outside, mid way etc..
Can you also post the model that you have worked on.
I’ll set you up an example model and we can organise a mini-TeamViewer session so I can show you how to use it to build other models.
Cheers,
Ness
Hi Ness
Hope you can make sense of this.
For the base units the face frames will be 22mm x 40mm.
I would need:
Top rail flush with the outside edge
Bottom rail flush with the inside edge so it is over hanging the bottom of the unit
Left and right stiles I will need to make up a library of cabinets with them in all 3 positions as well as having them in different positions on either sides. In some cases I will need to take the stile to the floor as well, either side or both.
As well as adding in extra rails and mullions
For the wall units the face frames will be 22mm x 40mm for the stiles and 22mm x 60mm for the rails.
I would need:
Top rail flush with the outside edge
Bottom rail flush with the inside edge so it is over hanging the bottom of the unit
Left and right stiles I will need to make up a library of cabinets but the majority would be flush with the outside edge
As well as adding in extra rails and mullions
I will need another set of face frames for our beaded ones.
For the base units the face frames will be 22mm x 32mm. This is to allow for an 8mm bead to be routed into the frame. It would really be 22mm x 40mm stock but to trick the program into giving us the right sizes for the rails I have taken the 8mm off for the bead allowing us to mitre off just the bead and then having the right lengths.
I think this would work but not sure, the problem comes when adding a door but if I am able to reduce size of the door by 8mm on all sides this would allow for the 8mm beading. This then leads into another problem if I need the stiles flush with the inside of the cabinet it will be 8mm short!!!!!!!!!
As with the above I would need to make up a library of all the variants for all our different applications for the base and walls
October 4, 2012
Hi Nigel,
Can you give me some more detail of how you want to set up your face frames?
I’ll need the section of the styles and rails and how the frames sit on the boxes, ie flush to inside, outside, mid way etc..
Can you also post the model that you have worked on.
I’ll set you up an example model and we can organise a mini-TeamViewer session so I can show you how to use it to build other models.
Cheers,
Ness
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