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Hi Ness, I hope you have enjoyed the seasonal holidays. I have been outside working lately. At the house it is clear that we will add a frame that will decrease the width and length of the opening. The total width of the steps in the 410mm thick ceiling should not exceed 1650mm (previously stated 1800mm). I presume this will affect the 2 or possibly 3 top steps? Further I have returned to the original bardesign on the handrail. The glass solution did not work out. Your piece of advise is as usual appreciated (ref stringer laminate).
Regards
pb
October 4, 2012
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Hi Per Birger,
Happy you like the design.
The stringer at 100mm is to match the general thickness of the steps and posts. It’s not structural and it’s possible to reduce to 60 and increase the depth.
But you might consider making the stringer in 3 parts this makes cutting the step supports much easier. You can make the step supports 50 to 60mm with the grain vertical and sandwich them between two boards of 30mm. No need to cut an angle as the curved steps make the cut string parallel to the step nosings.
Here’s the idea in a SketchUp drawing:
The bowed step fronts can be adjusted to suit the wood you have available.
I attach the StairDesigner file with the strings at 60mm and the other elements slightly smaller, this gives a lighter less massive design.
If you have a head room problem at the top you might consider making the stair a quarter turn.
All the best,
Ness
Hi Ness, a few questions mostly related to size of materials.
I noticed that the Thickness of needed material required for the stringer is now 100mm. I think 62mm is max size Ive got. I will check this later on today. What is the total length and width of the required material? I presume the thin topend of the stringer could be made of a seperate piece of wood?
The width of the steps are now 43mm and decreasing upwards. I will have to check the width of the stack Ive got.I will look through my material to verify that I have the required sizes. If not I guess we can decrease the bow somewhat on the steps?
I realise that the stringers are a little angled. This means that the cut on the riser surface will be slightly angled 5 degrees. This angle has to be applies when the stringer is cut?
I am really happy with the design now, its a lovely stair – very majestetic.
Regards
Per Birger
Hi Ness,
I am looking into the stair.
I think this looks like a very exciting solution. Not a dull stair anymore.
It is at the loft I foresee a possible headroom problem. I am thinking about how to make people turn right at eh top of the stair…
I will discuss with my family too.
Regards
Per Birger
October 4, 2012
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Hi Per,
I tweaked a bit your project adding the glass and widening the stair a little to make up for the narrower top as the strings are angled. Here’s what it should look like:
From the plans you sent there shouldn’t be a head room problem.
StairDesigner calculates a head room of 2300mm so easy enough :
I attach the StairDesigner file for you to play with but this model is quite buildable, and shouldn’t be too difficult.
What do you think?
All the best,
Ness
Hi Ness, here are the drawings showing the limitations. It is not very much headroom where the stair ends.
Regards
Per Birger
Hi Ness,
I really loved that stair of yours. Its right on. I understand flair by now. I agree on the curved stringers…. really don’t want to complicate the stringers /the ash is a light/fair material – no forgiveness there….). I do appreciate your advise, and I understand that it might be a good idea to have the stringers slightly angled. The idea I had was to have the hand rail made of glass and wood in a similar but a little rougher style than in the enclosed picture.
Regards
Per Birger
October 4, 2012
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Hi Per,
There are quite a few different styles on the web page you sent, which ones are you considering?
Flaired stairs are usually when the strings are curved outwards towards the start. This makes for a majestic start but ofcourse is difficult to make. You can Google “flaired stairs” to have loads of different models to choose from.
It’s perfectly possible to just curve the steps and leave the strings parallel and straight, but as a compromise you might consider making the strings slightly angled.
Here’s a model that you could work on:
Note that stairdesigner adds extra balusters at the start that have to be taken away manually.
I’ve made the handrail 100×60 which is a better section given the size of the stair.
Posts are now 140×140.
Of course you can play around with this model and change sizes and sections, add more curve steps etc to see what suites you best.
All the best,
Ness
Hi Ness,
I have been looking for an illustration on the net to envisage what I have in mind for a handrail. I found it here;
https://woodstaircase.blogspot…..stair.html
Search for “Wood Handrails Stair Parts stair Balusters newel Posts”.
I imagine the handrail to be 62 mm x 62 mm? I am not sure of the corresponding dimensions of the newels.
pb
The material is Ash. The idea is that the Stair should pronounce robustness. Its given a central place in the room. The rest of the room interior and design will be rough. Very much male. The wood is cut from the woods/local forest.
I am not sure what you mean by flair (sorry about that – my English is a bit out of date). I was thinking about having the steps shaped with a curve. I thought that the stringers were straight/normal.
pb
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