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August 7, 2014
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Hi Bob,
Sorry for the delayed reply on this but a wooden cut-stringer needs enough support width to be able to carry the weight of the stair, so I doubt that this is a wooden construction. It seems to me that this is a concrete base covered with stair steps. You can not reach that slender look with wooden cut-strings. Maybe adding in total 4 cut-strings can add to the stiffness of the stair but would be still an unstable construction as over time it would start bending down on the weight. If you really want to achieve this result I would recommend that you make a concrete stair base and cover it with wooden steps and finish the sides and bottom with stucco work.
regards
Michel
Hi Michel
Many thanks for your input which has led to a great deal of thinking at my end! The big question in my mind is how many cut strings can be added to a staircase? I need more than two to achieve the slender look I am going for – I have attached my ideal below
Thanks again
Bob
August 7, 2014
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Hi Bob
just right click on the worksheet and choose add a join.
Select the position and select smooth join . Define the needed radius and apply
regards
Michel
Hi Michel
I understand what you mean about the landing stair, I hadn’t realised it wasn’t there! Thanks for the correction which will form the base of v4 ….. The join that you mention sounds like a good idea, the rails for the two flights are being connected by a curved wreath and a curved join would make sense. How do I insert one? …….
Sorry, more questions as ever!
Regards
Bob
August 7, 2014
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Hi Bob,
offsetting the cut-string is not narrowing the stair as the steps remains as wide as the flight. It pushes the cut-string inwards so that the step overlaps the cut-string which is mostly done in such stairs.
A join is a bend piece with a certain radius. If you use a leg that it is not needed, just keep it straight.
The landing step is the last step of the stair. I have set up a step on this version. Take a look
regards
Michel
Thanks for this feedback Michel, let me take another look. When you ask about a join on the inner corner I’m not sure what you mean – there will be a “leg” there as in the original plan (the incorrectly named newel post) which doesn’t show in the drawing – is that what you are referring to?
The landing step – do you mean that step 17 should be wider?
I will load up v3 once I have had a chance to look at the offset, does this effectively narrow the stair?
Sorry to have so many questions …..
Regards and thanks again
Bob
August 7, 2014
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Hi Bob,
Looks OK but don’t you want to offset the cut-stringers so that the step overpass a certain distance?
Also, as it is a continuous stair don’t you need to add a join in the inner turn or do you want to keep it straight ?
On the stair you do not have any landing step. This means the upper floor level will be your last step. In Most cases a landing step is added to connect the stair properly
regards
Michel
Hello Michel and Stephan
Attached is the new version of my staircase. I have removed the newel posts completely having realised that they are incorrect – they are really just legs! There are still 17 steps but after a thorough remeasure and an adjustment to the length of flight 1 the plan meets UK building regs (just!) and also meets 600 on the stair rule. Could you produce a set of plans and a cutting list for me please? Come back to me if there is anything you spot that is obviously wrong …..
Many thanks
Bob
Hi Michel
Many thanks for coming back to me so quickly (do you work all night?)
There are a number of reasons for the slightly unconventional design of the stair as submitted. The balustrading, at 16mm square, is made of steel and matches the same on the landing – I have enclosed a picture – and the reason for the newel posts being as they are is that the bannister rail is one continuous piece from the first step through to the far end of the landing, the steps sitting over them. The first step will have a semi-circular end (I can’t find a tool to shape the step in 7 yet …) with a volute on balusters.
The reason for pushing the stair rule is that I am looking for a “flat” staircase to go with the period of the property that we have (two examples attached). The UK building regs stipulate a minimum stair rule of 550, it’s the going and riser that are marginally out … (NB “The preferred going and rise for school buildings is 280mm and 150mm respectively”). The steps will be nosed to the side which will be attached in the old fashioned manner ……
The step thickness has been concerning me. I am looking for an elegant, thin step which will be made in oak, together with the risers. Obviously this needs to be balanced against structural integrity, and I thought that a solution would be to rebate the riser into the front of the tread and use a thinner nose – what do you think?
The hand rail is pre bought at 89×54.
I am redoing the design and will post soon
Cheers
Bob
August 7, 2014
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Hi Bob,
I send you this design to put you on a correct track to get your stair done. I can assist you on questions you have to reach the moment you happy about the stair and we can send you to documents. However, this service is only a file processing service which means we have not checked your stair in detail compared to your work site situation.
Regards
Michel
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