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Introduction of Christopher Pare|Page 6|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
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October 4, 2012
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Hi Christopher,
I’ve retweaked a bit this last design:
– get more complete drawings of the framed doors and panel I’ve replaced the Bar materials with a 1″ panel called Oak Rail. (Other wise Polyboard doesn’t draw the details of the framing)
– added a left end plinth to the right side to make it easier to fix them all together. There are no assembly details on the plinthes, if I was you I would glue and screw angled blocks on the inside of the plinth joints. Like this you don’t need biscuits.
You idea to use mortise and tenons only on the larger doors is fine.
Note that Polyboard draws the grooves stopped at the minimum panel length. This makes a too tight fit, so I suggest that you cut the panels a little shorter.
If you are feeling really ambitious you could consider making the end panels, plinth and top really curved with bendy ply and a form.
Otherwise you should be all set to go!
It’s been a pleasure to work with you on this great project. I can’t wait to see it built!
Good luck .
All the best,
Ness
Thanks Ness and Mark!
I just learned something new with respect to PolyBoard… Cannot see hardware in “project mode”. Noted.
For the following, refer to the attached project, Home-Bar-01v07.
Regarding the mortise and tenon joints, I decided that I am going to give it a try – to a point. The two largest doors will be built using mortise and tenon method. My novice-woodworking friend (Reg) and I decided that we will use biscuit joints for the drawers, double-doors, and back panels since we do not believe that there will be enough pressure on them to dictate such a heavy duty joint. Do you think we made a good judgement call on this? Ultimately, we did not want to have to “dig” out 40 mortise “holes”. With that change, there are now just eight (8)… (amazingly, I believe that I figured out how to remove those mortise and tenons joints from the project).
I’ve also made a bit of an adjustment to the left section by subtracting 1/4″ from it’s width, which lined up the uprights, in the top section, to the respective lower uprights.
Given those changes, I do not think that there’s any other adjustment required in the project and I do believe that you should be able to process the docs for me (unless there is something else you think needs changing and/or you believe we made the wrong decision on those added biscuit joints). Assuming you agree, now on-wards to the manual labour!!! LOL
All of that said, I want to take a moment and sincerely thank you with your on-going assistance, Ness and Mark!!! Without you guys, I’m sure I would be spending a lot more time and funds for my masterpiece! (and I cannot wait to show off my accomplishment to you guys!)
Sincerely,
Christopher
Christopher and Ness,
This looks awesome! It makes me wish I had space to put a bar. Oh, wait. I have an unfinished basement… 
Keep up the good work.
Kurt
October 4, 2012
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Hi Christopher,
Mark is right you can only see hardware in the individual cabinets not in Project mode. Be sure as well to turn the hardware display button (3D Tooling button) on .
Mortise and tenons are a bit more work that biscuits. You could use biscuits or even just extend the panel grooves across the end of the stiles and use a false tongue.
Without mortise and tenons I would however, on the doors, glue the panel to the hinge side stile to avoid sagging.
All the best,
Ness
May 18, 2014
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Hi Christopher
all hardware is there. You need to view cabinets individually to see hardware. It will not show in project 3d.
mark
Hi Ness,
I looked it over and I cannot see any addition of hardware. Am I missing something?
Christopher
Thank you Ness! I will have a look at the final model when I get home.
Side note: I seem to be second-guessing myself though on one piece of direction I gave earlier… For the mortise-tenon joints of the doors, drawers, and framing along the back, could they also be done using biscuits joints? I’m just not sure if I can take on that kind of complexity at this time or do you think I can do it (finding the proper YouTube video)? What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
Christopher
October 4, 2012
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Hi Christopher,
Here’s a final model with the hardware and I’ve also added a few strips of edging that were missing.
The hinges should be OK but I’m not sure about the exact position of the drawer runner screw holes so I just drilled 2 holes that will give the screw alignments on the drawers and support panels. I suggest you draw a line between them and screw the runners onto the line adding screws as necessary.
Can you check it all over and say if it’s OK to process?
All the best,
Ness
Hi Ness,
I went ahead and added the edging to the bar… See the attached project.
Let me know how I did. I am sure I could have missed something.
Now all that is needed are the manufacturing methods for the hinges and the addition of the drawer runners (as per my previous posting for AutoCAD drawing). I’ll repost so you didn’t have to go looking for it:
” I have purchased my door hinges and drawer sliders. The following are the details about them:
– Richelieu/Blum 100 degree Hinge Clip Inset with Plate for door of 5/8″ to 3/4″ thickness. The 35mm deep holes on the door are to between 11mm to 12.7mm deep, where the centers of those holes are to be at 22.5mm from the side of door and at 1/5 and 4/5 of the door height. The product info and mounting schematics can be seen at this link: https://www.richelieu.com/ca/e…..1M27521180
– Richelieu/Blum Series 3832 Full Extension Slide – UCT38322G20. The specs and AutoCAD file can be found at https://www.richelieu.com/ca/e…..CT38322G20. “
Christopher
Ness,
I’ve investigated the edge banding option and this is what I found: 1/16″ (1.5mm) thick solid-wood edge banding is pre-glued with a hot-melt adhesive and can be ironed on and trimmed. Supplied in rolls 7/8″ wide and 25′ long.
I went ahead and ordered 2 rolls of it. I figure that 50′ should be enough…
Christopher
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