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Introduction of Christopher Pare|Page 8|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
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October 4, 2012
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Hi Christopher,
Your project is looking great and seems OK to build.
If you’re using biscuits you don’t really have to mark them out with Polyboard.
Biscuits can be set up on the fly by just marking the approximate centre line positions on each board.
If you want I can set up a marker so that Polyboard marks a centre position for each biscuit but it’ll be longer to mark the boards from the Polyboard drawing than just eye balling them.
There’s lots of videos on using biscuits on Youtube, here’s one that looks OK:
The other things that need setting up are the drawer runners and the door hinges. this will depend on the hardware models that you have available. If you can post the brand and model with eventually the drilling parameters we can set them up and we’ll be ready to go.
One last minor point is that I noticed the uprights in the top don’t line up with the lower uprights. I would prefer to see them in the same alignment, what do you think?
All the best,
Ness
Ness,
I’ve made a few more tweaks to the Home Bar project (see attached) and I think it is good to go.
Now, I believe it is time to add the manufacturing method, right? Would you have one that uses biscuit-fittings? It also needs the hinge-fittings for the doors…
Thanks!
Christopher
October 4, 2012
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Hi Chris,
Yes sorry the Polyboard file doesn’t seem to have uploaded.
Here it is again:
So I’ve also added a board to fill the square side cupboard top against the wall .
tell me what you think?
All the best,
Ness
Hi Ness!
Could you upload the project file too please?
Thanks,
Christopher
October 4, 2012
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HI Christopher,
You project is looking very good.
You can’t buy a curved arm rest for the now oval shaped top, but you could cut small straight sections to follow a segmented edge.
Of course this means you’ll not be cutting a curved top but leaving it segmented as in Polyboard .
I’ve mini retweaked a bit your design by making the inner cut out on the curved end top/bottom separation oval rather than rectangular, you can also make it follow the shape of the lower cabinet but you have to make a pie shaped polyline in CAD and import into Polyboard so I just used a standard oval that comes with the library.
Of course you can just make a rectangular or triangular cut out, just thought an oval would be more elegant.
I’ve also added the additional board to block off the space in the top curved end, using the double back command.
Your project looks OK to go now, would you like me to send the working documents?
All the best,
Ness
PS: Have seen the big pounds yet though
Hi Ness!
I went ahead and included your suggestions into the project. I also stretched the bar-top 5″ wider. And guess what? I like what I am seeing!
See the attached pics and project file.
What do you think? I really like the two different curves coming together to the single point.
One issue that I would love to see fixed is that additional board added as per the “front view” pic. But it really isn’t a big deal if it cannot be done.
The only other issue (if it can be called an issue) is that when I stretched the bar top, the curved end was stretched meaning that it no longer is a perfect 24″ radius corner. Because of this, I will not be able to buy an arm rest moulding to fit around it, which can be a blessing in disguise by saving me some cash. That said, I will just put the arm rest moulding on the straight side of the bar and leave it like that. What would be your thoughts on this idea?
Again, I want to thank you for your time! I’m sure you know, but I want to say that you are very much appreciated!
Christopher
What a great idea, Ness, with respect to the cut-outs to the uppers of each end-section!!!!! That’s why they pay you the big pounds, eh?
I will rework the project (including the cut-outs) and upload for another review.
Christopher
October 4, 2012
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Hi Christophe,
Not sure what to advise with the bar top over hang. In my opinion it seems a little tight and could do with a few more inches but not 10″.
If you need to adjust to the time you want people to hang around make a sliding top that you slowly pull back as it gets later or they get more boring.
What ever you decide, don’t rework the whole project just make the top bigger and maybe add a bottom (to the top) and/or take the top of the lower elements.
For the lost space you can just cut out the top of the lower elements so that the space can be accessed from inside the cupboards.
At least this make the space accessible and might be useful for tall bottles.
All the best,
Ness
Something my neighbour told me regarding the bar-top overpass… “You don’t want to make your company too comfortable… They’ll never leave!” Something to consider when answering my question below.
Christopher
Hi Ness!
I wasn’t putting a drawer in the curved corner… In fact, I was simply going to put a front “board” there to close that area. I simply could not figure out how to put an “upright” there in PolyBoard. Effectively, yes, it is simply lost space… But it is only 3 1/4″ of lost space, so it really isn’t a big deal. Definitely not enough to justify a drawer.
As to the other end where you suggested opening the top, well… this is an area where my slot-machine will sit. Of course, I want the slot-machine to sit level with the bar-top. That means, no cutting of the top at that end and the area underneath it again becomes 3 1/4″ of “lost space”.
As for the rest of your ideas, I like what you are suggesting…
There is one more thing that I am still trying to make a decision on… And I’ll try my best to explain it (hopefully, I don’t confuse you). I recently learned that when it comes to the amount of distance needed for “knee-room”, there seems to be a standard of having 8 1/2″ – 10″ overhang of bar-top from the bar-back.
Now, thinking of the end-state of my Home Bar, I will have a 2″ metal-bar rail added onto the plinth to keep feet/chairs away from the bar. This metal railing will extend 8″ total from the plinth. Add the 2″ recess of the bar back and we have our 10″! Wooohoo!
Great, but… Yes, my bar top is also overpassing by 2″ and the arm rest will add another 2-3″ beyond that. But are those 4-5″ (in total) enough of an overpass? Or should it also be 10″?
If you think, “yes, it should also be 10 inches”, then I will need to modify all four sections of my project to extend the bar-top overpass with an additional 5-6″… I will not be able to simply change the recess of the back because my fridge (which is 19″ deep) would no longer fit. What are your thoughts?
Sincerely,
Christopher
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